All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

In front of TV December 14, 2010

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 12:03 am
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A great group of ATX boyz came out last week –  Vinny, Merrick, Cody Cox and TV. I had the typical blast climbing with them, and did a bunch of projects. It was Channukah, and I had several miracle sends come out of nowhere, after feeling pretty weak for my first couple weeks here. It was so fun to have those guys out during a peak in my own climbing. Mainly because I could keep up with them, and even peace them out on a cryptic warm up roof eliminate — pure Austin style.

TV took some lovely shots of the trip. Of course, here are the ones of me:

I never tried Jigsaw Puzzle last year, because despite the modest grade it's kind of intimidating.

I managed to get through it pretty fast though -- two short sessions, both with Merrick

This is my new and probably last project for this trip, Eckstein. It’s the perfect problem for me. A stout, butt-dragger traverse on slopers, a huge manly huck, some swing time, and a hard but fun crimpy low ball end section. I managed to do all the moves for the first time that day. But I think I went at it too hard, and now my wrist is tweaked. I’m going to rest until the end of the week, then go back and hopefully send when the weather cools off on Friday. To paraphrase Adam Ondra, it is a very nice looking problem, and it is also a very big number.


It was an awesome visit and a great Channukah in the desert with good friends, new and old.


Back in the basic/Black/Saddle Again October 19, 2010

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 3:05 am
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After my long trip I touched down in Austin and worked 6 days in a row teaching gymnastics. A coworker hurt herself so I covered all her classes and a few extra, and it was a total blast as I had missed hanging out with 7-year-olds. I never imagined that I would say or think that, but there ya go.

Anyway, I finally went climbing again on Friday at McKinney. The weather was perfect and I was almost alone the whole time, which is how I like it. But I was, as is my usual day 1 of the year at McKinney, tragically weak. I fell off the prow on my first try, which is kind of my litmus test for the day/season. Then I couldn’t remember anything about how last year’s never-go project Power Slide worked. I tried out my new Dragons but they hurt my toes beyond usefulness. AO says I’m just a pansy because I haven’t been stuffing my toes into Dragons for 15 years. Gonna keep trying, as their shape and the tight heel and pointy-point toe carry so much promise. I worked the circuit on the main wall and tried to relearn projects for 2 hours, which is a long session there for me. I bailed feeling happy to be back at McKinney, but a little worried about my ability to pebble wrestle with authority.

Last year at McKinney on the 'manually stuffed heel hook project' with Capt. Bstrd. Carl Antone took this sweet picture, but I can't stand whatever is going on with my hair.


Then I went to the lake on Saturday with AO and TV, which was glorious. I think I was laughing the whole time, telling them about my trip and listening to their psych over Point Cove.

with TV and AO, loving life at Pt Cove. Erik Moore took this one.

I tried some new-school beta on Talk to Jesus, which was neat. I didn’t send it again, but I don’t care. Started working on another line that starts in the same spot, with some harder moves and strong, long, roof crimp issues. The boys have learned to do every move from one end of the tufa-crammed roof to the other. Their stoke seems bottomless, and it was so much fun to watch.


AO all up in the roof (by TV)

Capt Bastard all up in the roof (by Erik)

Eventually I started to feel like I had my lake legs and bouldering brain back, and I’m psyched to go for a third project (!). The water is cooler now, and the noon air temperature is about 85. It’s basically heaven, and I hope to go back a bunch in the next couple weeks before I head westward.

My new pt cove love, Murder Boat something. TV took this. He has a new photo blog, which is in the blogroll.

Then I went to Houston and climbed on Sunday at my favorite gym, Stone Moves North. I had a blast, made a new strong girlfriend, and fell off of a bunch of red problems, which at that gym = weaksauce. I am getting this kind of cool, passive acceptance feeling that Hueco in November might be all about v4++. Stoked. Plenty of projects.


Eat, Shlep, Amistad August 19, 2010

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 1:53 am
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Toying with a title that plays on my shameless excitement over the movie Eat, Pray, Love, and my trips to Amistad. I know, I know, I don’t care, I love Julia Roberts and I relate to the story of the film so just back off. I spent three days climbing on the water with AO and Travis over last weekend. We took no pictures, but here is one from my last trip, which was an interpersonally and socially traumatizing experience I’m kind of trying to forget. But it’s a nice picture, by Merrick.


Tall, scary, vertical, over the water, kinda the deal out there for me. This time I did a line I’d never tried before, a tall set of shallow red huecos on the 2010 wall. It was for the ffa which is super cool and all but really, with Jennie benched for gestation I don’t feel as excited about it.

Jennie at her wedding last winter

It was a very relaxed, glorious trip. I came back with many bug bites, and another 5.9+x fa called Peacock Lounge, downstream of the 2010 wall. It’s a short, 20 feet or so of easy slightly overhanging moves on sharp, huge holds, then a loooong low angle climb up these enormous, deep runnels. It’s not hard, but moving from the overhang into the runnels was scary and the whole thing was probably a bad idea, but it was super fun, but I think no one should probably bother doing it again. This was the conversation that preceeded it:

Me: Think I could rock climb that?

AO (fishing): No. Those big runnels? No.

Me: I think there’s a clean line into them right there.

AO (ignoring me, fishing): ….

Me: Hey the wind is taking us over there, that means god wants me to climb it.

Travis (fishing): The what wants the what?

Me: Take me over there to that choss. I’m going rock climbing.

(I climb all the way up and turn around, victorious)

Me: Should I jump?

AO: We should probably depth test it.

This trip I forgot lots of important stuff, like my chalk bag collection, my toothpaste, and a headlamp. I’m heading back on Friday for one last go before I head to Europe.  I’m gonna remember my mesh tent, my gas lantern, my headlamp, and all kinds of other stuff I completely spaced on. Pretty excited to do more climbing, hopefully my brain will still be in gear from last weekend, and I won’t need a day to get myself un-terrified. Maybe I’ll get to try some harder moves. Maybe even, god help me, a 5.10!