All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

New Training Post and P Style! February 5, 2014

Filed under: Domestic Projects — sendann @ 5:04 pm
Tags: ,

I’ve got a new post about abdominal exercise for bouldering over at Climb On Sister this week!

Also, next month I’m going to start carting around a really cute vintage suitcase in my roofbox. What’s going to be inside? P Styles! So you don’t have to be jealous of my amazing stand up and pee ability for long, as I’ll have them for sale as soon as we get back to the parking lot. Should be pretty exciting. I’ve had a revival of interest from people about the P Style, so I decided it was just time. In the meantime, I’ll direct you directly to the P Style website. That’s my news!


Screen Shot 2014-01-23 at 9.56.21 PM


Pilates Workshop Coming up in March! January 31, 2014

Filed under: Pilates — sendann @ 6:20 pm
Tags: , ,

Ann Raber - Pilates to Improve Your Edge - NB - 3 22 2014 (1)


measured caloric intake, if that’s even a thing, is blowing my mind and changing my life right now July 3, 2012

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 11:27 am
Tags: , , ,

I completely dorked out a few months ago and googled every variation of “Athlete Nutrition Climbing” I could think of, read tons of really bad articles slapped together by supplement companies, and got deep into the search results, like page 7.

There was not a ton of info that was as specific and instructive as I wanted, but there was enough for me to only absorb a few of the lessons. Since then, I’ve had a dramatic improvement in the length of time I can perform at my maximum effort when I’m out bouldering/in the gym. Especially since coming to the Rocklands!

rocklands sunset by Jeremy Thomley

I’ve been here just over a week now, and climbed about 6 full days and 2 halfies. My skin and the dark of night have been the primary factors that end my day. If you’ve climbed with me ever in life, this would seem kind of suprising. I usually crash within a few hours outside, an our indoors, and am asleep in the shade with a doughnut while everyone else flogs projects. This new system has turned it around, and I’ve pulled off long days and multiple sends like whoa. Anyway, here’s what I’m doing, it’s as much as I could hold in my brain and life:


3-4 hours before climbing, big meal of whatever I want, with an eye to carbs. I usually have an egg sandwich, a huge bowl of muselix with fruit and yogurt, both, a bagel with lox, pretty much as much delicious food as I can handle, with an emphasis on the grains/rice/produce side.


I pack for climbing like a schoolkid on an anti-obsesity program. 100 calorie baggies with a 4 to 1 carb/protein balance, if I can figure that out. Otherwise just carbs. 2 bananas, half a LaraBar, 10 pretzle chips, or – and this is the BEST – 1/4 of a PB&J.


I do a 45 minute warm up of hiking/jogging/jumping jacking whatever, large muscle group range of motion-making, then easy climbing (15 minutes each). After that I note the time and eat 1 baggie.


Every 45-55 minutes thereafter, I eat a 100 calorie baggie, even if I don’t feel like it.


That’s it. And water, but not any more than my usual. I bring out 1.5 liters and usually have about 1/5 of it left at the end. I might chug some gatorate beforehand, and sometimes some supplemental energy something, but honestly I don’t have any of that stuff out here and it hasn’t seemed to make a difference.


Also, if sending happens or doesn’t happen and I feel emotional about it, I might gorge on all the baggies at once in an effort to devour the feelings. This usually ends the day right there.



Ann Raber’s 20 minute v4++ workout from jewish hell May 19, 2011

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 5:25 pm
Tags: ,

My internet friend Tommy Tissue Tendons, who used to have a hilarious bouldering blog but now has sold out to spammers (how much did they pay?), asked me to elaborate on my tiny version of the v13 workout. We’ll call it the v4++ workout.

Now, I’m not a trainer, and I don’t know what I’m talking about, and I made this up, and after I did it I was convinced that I had given myself permanent tendonitis in all of my elbows, shoulders, lats, etc. I will never do this workout again. Ever. That said, here it is:

Ok, that v13 workout is a repeated circuit of 3 10-minute rounds of exercise, each round targetting a different kind of movement – push, pull, or hang. Ideally you do it 3-6 sets for a 2 hour session. Whatever. I also included my max-out points here, for time reference and so you can try to best me! (motivation!)
I did 5-minute rounds instead of the prescribed 10, because I found I could not do “things” “continuously” for 10 “minutes”.

I added a 4th category called “core” where I did floor and hanging ab-targeted stuff.

I could only do 1 set of 4 5-minute rounds, to the official 4 sets of 3 10-minute rounds. This workout takes 20 minutes.

Other issues:
All the exercises have to be done, for me, with perfect perfect super form. A form break (legs bending or pumping, arching my back, or favoring one of my sides, means max-out/failure)

A rest is about 1:30, with an additional :30 for setting up the next round.

I did this at a gymnastics gym, with no hangboard or climbing stuff. You could do it at a good workout park too, or at home on a rings/bar/hangboard.

Round 1 “push”

dips on parallel bars (can be done on rings i guess) to max-out (15 for me)
push ups to max (25 for me)
shrug ups (hang between parallel bars, do a deep shrug with my shoulders, then push it up to lengthen my neck) (10-15)
repeat, lowering the reps by 5 each time, and by the time you’re doing 5 or fewer of each, five minutes is almost up.


Round 2 “pull”

pull ups, regular chin-up grip, to max-out (15 for me)
pull ups, backward (palms facing) grip, to max-out
hanging shoulder shrugs
pull downs with theraband (tie a theraband around a table or doorknob, lie down with bent knees holding the band straight above your eyes in both hands and some slack in the band. Pull with straight arms, to the floor. Keep your spine on the ground and use the shoulder blades to do this one)

repeat, decreasing reps as you slowly die, for five minutes.


Round 3, “Core”

hang from a bar, with some back wall support if you have it for these:

straight leg lifts, toes to the bar if flexibility allows, or to parallel (perfect form I can manage about 5 of these)
tuck lifts, same thing but keep the knees pulled in super tight to your chest, feet touch the wall behind you, repeat. these are easier, I can do about 12.

one-leg lifts, point one leg down straight, and lift the other up as high as you can, then circle it outward to go down (like you’re drawing a big circle with your toe), repeat with the next leg. then reverse it, circling up and coming straight down. these are weird. i do 5 on each leg, each direction.
straight leg lateral lifts – lift straight legs out to the side about 20 degrees toward the centerline, lower them down and up the other
side with total control and no momentum. I can do 3 sets without a form break, maybe.
tuck lateral lifts – tuck the knees to come up to the side, straighten the legs, move them across high, lower in a tuck, repeat coming from that side. I can do 2 sets, ug.
it should be close to five minutes now, if not, lay down and put your legs up the wall, butt up against the wall too, and curl up as high into a crunch as you can with hands behind your head and elbow wide, pulse until it’s time


Round 4, “hang”

hang from a bar (or board, although I only had a bar) in a locked off pull up position to max out
hang straight armed with an open palm on jugs or a bar in the tippy top of a shoulder shrug to max out
hang straight armed with an open 3-knuckle grip (or less, i was on a bar like i says) no effort below the hands to max out
hang from one arm, any grip, body super tight and still
hang from the other arm
cut off your arms and upper back
put in blender

So that was it. Let me know if those descriptions don’t make sense to you and you really, really want to do them. Also tell me if you do it and like/hate it! I’m curious.



Whackamaze May 13, 2011

Filed under: Cars,Climbing,The Past — sendann @ 7:06 pm
Tags: , , , ,

Wow, what a whack week! A few difficult things, and some really amazing things, happened. Here are some:



I passed my Pilates Certification exam! Lots of ideas and early-stage dreams around what to do with it. For now, training and substitute teaching.


My 1-month old Subaru that I sunk all my independent lady money into and traded the Trooper for, died, most likely after a jiffylube guy accidentally drained the transmission fluid instead of the oil. Apparently on this particular car it’s a very very easy mistake. Either way, my front differential fell apart two days later, and the part costs just a little more than I paid for the car. What a total bummer.


This cool mechanic from my neighborhood might buy it and fix it and sell it. It would be nice to pass it on to someone in the ’21.


I got to go to the lake with Louis in his new boat on mother’s day, and we both climbed the Kwai, which I’d been working hard on last time I went.


I told my free-to-spray friend about it and he kinda dissed on Kwai, and said everyone does that climb.  I know I’m way sensitive when it comes to the loop and the lake. Still, that’s not the agreement. You can’t downgrade or wave off a send your spray-friend is psyched about. Just you and me now, blog. So hey I did the Kwai. Amazing.


Nate told Serena that I “hate” her, which Serena told Blair who of course told me. Awesome. What class. Can you imagine? I guess Nate said stuff like that to me before, that so-n-so was not so liking me, but it was absurd and clearly a personal insecurity thing.  I tried to clear things up with Serena, who I’m not close to but don’t feel hostile toward. But what can you do? I swear, things are going to be TOTALLY different when I’m in college. I’m also pretty sure Nate is secretly the vampire manager of jiffy lube.


I had my first Art of Feminine Presence class with, randomly but so sweetly serendipitously, John Garcia’s gf Lauren Sheehan.  I’ve been curious about her work ever since I peeped her on facebook, and I’m so thrilled to be taking part. It’s almost impossible to explain what the class is about, but it’s geared toward women who’ve been involved in mind-body, self-help, that section of the bookstore kinda work for a long time, and are reconnecting with their most powerful and feminine attributes and the core essential woman inside. Hard to explain. Learning a lot, having fun.

Whack & Amazing

I did a very small version of Brian Anathesdk@fh&ian’s v13 workout (page 12 I think). On Monday. It’s Friday. My triceps still hurt so much it’s hard to get comfortable even for sleeping.


I went on a date with a leprauchaun and he showed me where the gold is, and although I’m not feelin him per se, I got a new car. Calling it El Rav. It’s a rav4, blue and sparkly and the fanciest thing I’ve ever owned other than my wedding outfit, including houses. Pics to come. Arms too tired to raise camera. Damn ye, ba.


all back up in training April 27, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Domestic Projects,Trips — sendann @ 3:07 pm
Tags: , , ,

It’s almost exactly a month before my summer trip takes off, I’ve done a few projects in town, and I already explained about the lake. So climbing is over, and here’s my plan: Try hard not to get any climby-tweaks, and do minimal-impact workouts every day, some days a lot some days a little. The idea is, one, not to get bored, and two, to get used to being super active and strong for many hours in a row.


So it pretty much started yesterday. Sometimes I think I’d like to motivate to do something, but it seems really far off. Then I shut off part of my mind, think about something else, and poof, I’m where I thought I wouldn’t motivate to be. Yesterday I swam seriously for the first time this year at Deep Eddy. I can’t remember what I was working up to last year, but I started with what I thought was pretty chill, 2 sets of 5 ‘down-n-backs’ with a 10 minute rest in between. I did mostly crawl, with a little breaststroke in there, although the frog kick aggravates this little heel-hook tweak I have going on in my knee, so I’m doing it with butterfly stroke style legs, which makes it the slowest stroke possible, very heavy on the arms.


So I’ll plan to swim 3 times a week, and keep note of my lappage here and see if I improve! It was so good to be back in the water, doing my little psychiatric endurance training thing. Sadly, my free neighborhood pool Givens Park isn’t open until June 8th. Deep Eddy costs a few bucks, but I have a good few weeks left on my pass.


The other parts of my super training month will be, for the next two weeks at least, massive Pilates to prepare for my exam, P90x ab ripper, circuit at the gymnastics gym before my classes, and a light free weights and theraband routine I’m working on. Also, this elaborate, ‘harnessing the feminine’ prayer, meditation and movement thing I’m sort of doing/sort of inventing from multiple sources.



Some of my other goals for the month are:

Stop using the word “Really”

Somehow fit all my favorite house-y things that I cannot get rid of into my parents house for safe-keeping

Crush my Pilates certification exam

Research and draw a plan for a 3-day (peyote-free) vision quest with a slant toward enhancing my feminine spirit

Stop participating in the hurtful, demeaning act that is gossip, or making myself a party to it by sharing personal information with folks who do

At least two more days in the ocean

More on these to follow. Thanks!



I like this shirt December 29, 2010

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 5:47 am
Tags: , , , ,

click it for the product page

It’s from Moon. For some reason it says “Was $25, now $24.95”, as if that’s some notable savings. Usually it has to be under $10 for me to fork over money online anyway. I’ll keep an eye on it, though. I’m also concerned about the material. If it’s that stripey stretchy thick stuff, I’m not psyched.

I also really love the Moon website’s training section. I’m brainstorming about training for the spring/summer. Pretty psyched to get back in GMFB’s garage, if it’s available which I’m hope hope hoping. Here’s TMFB and me training at their place a couple summers ago:


greg took this silly picture.

I can’t do the weight vest with HIT strips thing anymore, though. Last time I did that I came out of it tweaked beyond reasonable, and I  think it’s just too much on my relatively delicate fingers and elbows. My ultimate training fantasy is to (get someone to help me) build a Moon board, and do the full on Moon board thing, where you set it all up and use their holds to do their problems, which you can download every few months and set yourself according to this wacky grid/cardinal directions/coded holds system. Sounds so fun, right? I’m sure I’ll post more about my elaborate training rituals later on.