All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

Dawne Draber October 14, 2011

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 3:09 pm
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So I’m in the Stone Fort highlight reel TWICE! Once I’m called “Anne Draber” and the next time I beach whale a top out. There’s one uncredited time in there where I just fall in the background. It’s been going so, SO great!

I mean come on, my name is on the results page, this is not hard. This problem was neat. Sent in front of a bunch of girls, then ran away before I could contribute beta to potential competitors. We've come to this, folks.

This is a crack called "Devil's Cabana Boy", and it was my last problem of the day! I'm embarassed by my shoulder position and top out stylz. at least it's not under my real name? I need to be more gracefull, as of last week.

But the Triple Crown really has been going well for me so far! I’ve gotten second place in advanced twice, both times all three placers were within 1000 points or so of each other, so I think I made the right choice in my division selection. The girl who won at Stone Fort got 3rd at Hound Ears. We have no facebook friends in common, but I stalked her 8a, and she had some pocket problems in Chattanooga, so ya know, there’s that.

That shirt is a Gap Body halter from Pearl’s in Squamish, and those pants are these most perfect Mossimo4Target ones that I have in 5 colors. I’m wearing them in almost every recent climbing photo. Did I tell you I cried only ONCE at the Stone Fort comp? It was mid-day, in a crowded situation, and went on for about ten minutes. Awesome. Thankfully that did not make the highlight reel. Thanks, Scarpa guy with video camera!


coolness March 22, 2011

The weekend looked way up after my sick day. I ran out last minute to see my favorite band, Screeching Weasel, perform at the Scoot Inn for sxsw. It seemed weird when Merrick texted me that they were playing. They are NOT a very sxsw-y kind of group, being old, cult, and despising everything that…well just pretty much everything. I’m so glad I went though. I absolutely love that band. The singer whined the whole time about what a racket SXSW is, and how it’s just a big spring break clustercuss of self-proclaimed tastemakers and cocaine folk going to “showcases” for labels or cool crowd free shows for cool crowds. I kind of hate sxsw too, and I never stay in town for it. But last year I had a little bit of fun at the end, and I’m glad I made it back again. Merrick got annoyed at the band and left early, since the singer told all the media asshats they had to stand in the crowd if they wanted to take pictures. He thought it was rude. I was like, dude, what show are we at right now? I loved every minute of it, even when the singer punched two women and was dragged off the stage. They played were on stage for almost a full hour (long for a showcase I think), and I got to dance and sing and pump my fist and get knocked in the nose by an elbow then go home psyched and reeking of show. Pop punk is the best when it’s too pop for punks, and too punk for pop. I kinda think there’s a spot in that continuum that’s perfect for me and SW just nails it.

The next night I tried to go to the Saylorking’s hyde park backyard Appalacian roots music party for a change of pace, but I either got lost or missed it, cause it didn’t pan out and I wound up running around with Rebecca and company in a bars and downtown and artsyness circuit. Good times.

But the best best best part of the whole weekend was when Jeremy from Hattisburg came through town on his way home from Hueco. He and his beautiful girlfriend Alex came to a bbq at the Thornton’s, then a perfect evening session at McKinney (where I got a a high point on BOTH el camino left and QJ (foot move only)) topped by a steaming plate of enchiladas.


Got a new phone that takes weird, hard to see pictures. This is Jeremy.

This is alex, also of Hattisburg. She's just getting into climbing and when I asked how she liked being on a bouldering trip she was like, "I'm not used to all the ... hiking"


and Blaine was there! I haven't seen him in many months and it was so good to climb out there together. idk why I'm always asking blaine to do silly things for pictures. He just does them so well I guess.

So kind of a perfect day. Jeremy is, for me, a lot like Texas Steve from Eat, Pray, Love, the guy at the ashram in India who gives a lot of salt-o-the-earth spiritual guidance and long-haul perspective.

His perspective and encouraging, sane words have stuck with me since we met in Mallorca, and I got to re-up on their visit.

I am so psyched on MK right now. Gonna rest all week then go out with several pads on a cloudy evening and try to send some projects before the heat truly sets in and I skip town.


i have a dilema October 15, 2010

Filed under: Climbing,Work — sendann @ 9:28 pm
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I was approached to write opinion pieces for a real live climbing magazine, based on the staff’s affection for my other blog. I’ve been asked this kind of thing before by people who like sendaustin, but it didn’t work out and actually was kind of a traumatic experience, as it included quite a lot of spec work with an editor, followed by a nasty email about how immature and stupid I am, and no money. I’m pretty much not exaggerating, and I’m apprehensive to get into this again.

SendAustin is written in a voice that is, I hope it’s needless to say, not altogether my own. It’s a character, and on that site I make that character say all kinds of things that I would not, as myself, say or in some instances even believe. It’s fun, and it entertains me and the people who read it, and it’s a nice vehicle for expressing things that I actually do believe, but it’s mostly pretend.  So see this is a problem. Obviously if this mag likes sendaustin, they are wanting some sendaustin-style missives. Thing is, I don’t know if I can make that happen. I don’t know if I can use that voice to say things that I then have to sign my real name on, not that I have to do that for the mag but still. I know that seems silly, because everyone knows I do SendAustin, and I field plenty of flack for the things I say on there, but still, there is this wall of play-acting.

For instance, I think lots of men in this town are decent looking, strong as get out, and very cool, but for sendaustin I make it into a big crush thing with super girlie boy-craziness, mixed with ‘guy talk’ chauvanist madness that I borrow from WWTDD. Because a female voice commodifying men based on their physical appearance is rather unexpected and (therefor) funny. Plus, people find it flattering, and I like making people feel good. This, btw, has lead to some awkward, embarrassing missunderstandings about my personal feelings towards others. I mean, I wouldn’t disagree with sendaustin on anything, but I set aside parts of my personal code to make it happen. Because a blog about how everyone is just doing their best to get through this life and we all need to support each other with honesty and open minds would be really boring. No one would read it.

So should I do the magazine gig in character, or something close to character, for cash and validation and to build the SendAustin brand, whatever that means? I think I am also kind of intimidated, since I have had such bad luck before with magazine work and don’t consider it worth the pain of rejection after a woo-ing, the hustle, or the dismal, 6-months later (maybe) money.

Add to this the issue of I don’t know what I would write about anyway. When I made myself think about it, all I could come up with was how climbing magazines are so boring and stupid compared to surfing magazines, which are entertaining, inspiring and hilarious. Maybe I’ll pitch that to them. If they go with it, I’ll know they understand my editorial perspective. What should I do?