SendAnn

All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

blargtown October 25, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Trips — sendann @ 4:24 pm
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In the last week, I have come up against some kind of less-than-stoked wall. I think one reason is over-exposure to plastic. On some spiritual, biological level, I am allergic to indoor climbing. It gives me stabbing pains in my fingers and a watering in my eyes and an over-all malaise in my life when I do it more than a few times a year. Which has been great the last two and a half years that I haven’t been doing it. But this ABS thing had me crimping neon three times in the last 6 weeks, and it’s caught up with me something awful. My hand hurts, and I’m having these rogue thoughts that rock climbing is not that awesome after all.

Which is odd, because I swear I had a genuinely awesome time at the Athens comp at Active Climbing, the coolest gym ever with the silliest name. The owner is super low key, non-ego guy named Adrian, psyched on having a gym that serves the folks of Athens. He reminds me a little of Luis from La Posada. The setters and workers all seemed happy and talk about how awesome their gym is even when they’re outside. And the lines I did that day were some of the funnest, hardest gym lines I’ve played on before (special props to the brown dihydral (O-3 I think), and the pale blue overhang in the kiddy room (O-17, which I could not do sogood!!!). So it was an awesome day on fun routes. I got creamed, like, creamed corn in a blender, by a couple of high school girls from Atlanta. What’s with me always getting beaten by enormous German women? Remember the dyno comp? I’m sayin! God bless them they were fun to climb with all day. They live for plastic and don’t know anything about the world of outdoor climbing or, apparently, their approximate geographical location. So the day was decent. But with no swag and only one modest cash prize, I was annoyed to have gone all the way down there for one expensive day on plywood. I told my mother about it and she said,

“Well my dear, this is only the beginning. You shall suffer many more defeats at the hands of the young.”

Another awesome thing, however, was that I got to climb with this amazing girl in the Youth D division named Helen. Helen is – I’m callin it right now – the future of climbing. We met when I complimented her outfit. She had on argyle tights and a sparkly skirt with her team t-shirt, and a Chimp Crimps owl chalk bag.  She was quick to tell me she has an endorsement deal with Chimp Crimps and touted the value of their stuffed animal chalk bags. At the end of the comp, Alex pulled down his circus silk and trapeze, and showed his skills to the chilluns. Helen, it turns out, is also a skilled circus acrobat, and did some pretty radical, terrifying tricks while we waiting for awards time.

alex watching, helen on the trapeze

That’s one thing that’s been a real blessing from the ABS comps – getting to spend time around kids. I miss teaching gymnastics, and having that energy around me of young folks crushing at some athletic something. Also, always at these comps, kids and parents approach me with the most amazing compliments: that they were super inspired or enjoyed watching me or were pulling for me in the finals and stuff like that, which is so SO nice to hear and definitely stokes the climbing fire. ABS has been overall a very encouraging, fun and validating experience. But I’m glad to be done with the plastic game for a looooong while.

for her style, psych & skill, Helen is easily one of my top climbing heros

I’m not sure why else I might be feeling the blargs. A few visits to Blowing Rock this week and, hopefully, some project fun, will probably snap me out of it. Oh! Alex and I went to LRC on Sunday and I got to finish a couple things I’d ignored on Triple Crown day in favor of high volume. I also found a project that I am in love with. It’s called Grimace, and it’s a  series of sloper rails, like a slightly longer Gibbs Cave. I did all but the last move to a jug, and I hope I get back there soon to finish it up. It’s in this lovely, tiny cave and hang on I’ll look for a picture of it to show you….

I can’t find one, but it’s a very popular line. I’ll take a picture next time I go.
x
Alright I feel a little better now. Mom and I, whenever we talk lately, have been consoling ourselves through trials by remembering that sooner than later, we shall be in Hawaii.

bye bye plastic and tweakage!

 

fast train October 12, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Picture Taking,The Future,Trips — sendann @ 2:55 pm
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My first stop on the way from Leavenworth to Boone was in Missoula, to spend the night with Molly and Brandon. It was so good to see them, and I was bummed to be a few days late for their local climbing festival. Molly told me all about her new horse, Caper, and how stable and awesome he is. She had this very beautiful but very high maintenance horse when she was living in Austin. He had some kind of chronic pain condition that contributed to him being an almost constant jerk, and dangerous to ride. She finally sold him to a relatively inexperienced rider with a horse veterinarian in the family. The new owner seems to have the money and resources to take care of him, and doesn’t ask much of him in the ring. So it’s a reasonable, if unlikely match. Molly’s new horse is gorgeous and smart, and she’s been showing him around the region with great results. She said, “he’s the same horse every time I ride him.” Whereas the last one, she never knew who she was gonna get, and nothing she did helped him for any appreciable amount of time. But she can ride Caper anywhere. “I ride him next to the highway, trucks are going by, he’s fine. A train next to us, he’s fine. Now we’re gonna go faster. Now we’re gonna race the train! He’s perfect for me.” And it’s hard to imagine she spent so long feeling so bad over this sick horse who couldn’t keep up with her riding style and fancy horse ambitions. But it’s clear that the experience was traumatic and rattled her deeply, even though now things are quite perfect, and the old horse is doing well enough with his rich noob owner.

“Kind of sounds like men,” I said.

Then Molly asked me if I’d be down to do the 2 or 3 required USA Climbing local bouldering comps and go to Nationals in the winter with her. We could meet up! I said, “no way.”

The rest of my drive was full of amazing stormy skies from Wyoming to El Paso. I spent the night in Estes at Mama Bear Strong’s home for wayward climbers, and a fabulous morning on Pearl Street in Boulder having breakfast with Emilia, then coffee and shopping and a long talk with the Pigeon women. I pulled up to Shindaggar after midnight. It had been raining there too and the land was bursting green. I passed another great morning chatting with Andy, then had to drag myself away or risk staying for months.

And by the time I got to Austin I had decided Molly was right, it would be fun, and did an ABS comp in Houston before I headed east. I got to warm up with the Stone Moves team, and got some awesome coaching from Morgan and John from Team ARG. It was super fun, and I didn’t get beaten by any of the youth girls, so that was amazing. I’ve got another one in a couple weeks in Athens, and assuming she was serious, Molly and I will be meeting up at Nationals in February.

My predictions for Nationals:

I get second to last place in round 1

Molly goes to finals

Brandon and I get lost on a coffee run

 

repreZent July 18, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Shopping — sendann @ 5:35 pm
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Thanks for coming out to the dyno contest! It was the perfect way to spend another drizzler!

EMA competed, too, which was great since I learned a lot about dynoing from him last year on the Walrus. He was the shortest – and only non-lurp – guy in the top 6. He got 5th, and I think he was the only one who knew how to dyno. The rest of the field was littered with lurp action. Although the guy who eventually won was a total animal. And so was the girl who won. I got 2nd, and I think my highest dyno was like 1.8 meters. Thrilling. The girl who won wound up beating the Squamish record and punted just shy of meeting the world record. For dynoing on a woody in public. This is our sport. I’ve never done a climbing thing in front of people before, but as Australian David observed I had no trouble getting comfortable with the attention. Here’s a few of the official contest pics. More to come from Lotti…

a solid showing all around by the bteam

I love the girl cheering on the left. that's me on the wall btw

i won a swanky arcteryx jacket and one of those red mini pad bags, which I traded with one of the guys for a $150 fiveten gift card, which does not cover a pair of shoes. So I won the opportunity to give fiveten $20. I think I'll get the Yosemite Jeans. YAY!

 

the climbing lifestyle is a gamble April 7, 2011

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 2:22 am
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I will see your freedom of the road AND your sacred communion with nature and RAISE YOU one daily garage proj videochat sesh

 

But did you see what I did just there? I made the old sendaustin url redirect HERE. If you just got here that way, sorry for the surprise. Also, I am fully clothed in that picture, you just can’t tell because on account of how I’m situated.

Why did you make sendaustin private so that everyone else who’s cooler than me can see it but I can’t?

I swear I didn’t do that, I just quit it altogether. I couldn’t figure out how to disappear a blog without deleting it, so I made it “private.” I just didn’t want to do that blog anymore. I wanted to do this one! This one is an actual real person keeping a log of interesting things and thoughts and longboarding videos. So the exaggerations or lies you see here are actual self -delusion, not comedic effect. Isn’t that sad?

 

Welcome! Also please visit my blog sponsors! ——>

 

I like this shirt December 29, 2010

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 5:47 am
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click it for the product page

It’s from Moon. For some reason it says “Was $25, now $24.95”, as if that’s some notable savings. Usually it has to be under $10 for me to fork over money online anyway. I’ll keep an eye on it, though. I’m also concerned about the material. If it’s that stripey stretchy thick stuff, I’m not psyched.

I also really love the Moon website’s training section. I’m brainstorming about training for the spring/summer. Pretty psyched to get back in GMFB’s garage, if it’s available which I’m hope hope hoping. Here’s TMFB and me training at their place a couple summers ago:

 

greg took this silly picture.

I can’t do the weight vest with HIT strips thing anymore, though. Last time I did that I came out of it tweaked beyond reasonable, and I  think it’s just too much on my relatively delicate fingers and elbows. My ultimate training fantasy is to (get someone to help me) build a Moon board, and do the full on Moon board thing, where you set it all up and use their holds to do their problems, which you can download every few months and set yourself according to this wacky grid/cardinal directions/coded holds system. Sounds so fun, right? I’m sure I’ll post more about my elaborate training rituals later on.

 

le gothique September 1, 2010

Filed under: Climbing,Trips — sendann @ 5:52 pm
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Ok I made it to France. But first, here’s the thing about England: The food is terrible, it’s always cold, and no matter what you do, leaving the sofa costs $50 (one way). I did go to this crazy gym in London with my new London-based friend Ryan.

the Westway climbing wall and Westway highway

Weird, right? When you get to the top you can see people in their cars. Of course I was getting so whooped by the British plastic crag that I only got to the top once and friends, it was not a triumph. Also, under that highway there are horse stables. It’s pretty much the best highway ever.

But today I got to France and set up Ian’s awesome tent (thanks bro!) at this very nice campground in Gorg du Tarn. This place is kind of like Potrero. There are French people with kayaks everywhere, and tons of campgrounds and a chain of little towns. It’s like the hidalgo/monterrey/mina/virgin canyon etc deal at Potrero, but French and more moneyed and with way WAY fewer donkeys, which I consider quite a loss.

My campground has  a pool, and wifi, which is great because I am totally not sure how to find someone to climb with now and might need to pass some time before I give up on France and head to Spain, where I have a few contacts and suspect there will be more donkeys.

And I also have a cold, and am very, very tired, and I can’t figure out how to get my french CampingGaz stove to work. I am in some pretty tremendous self pity about the whole thing. I think it all started when I was driving through this amazing French mountain countryside, and all I could think about was all this mean stuff douchebag men have said about my driving. You guys all need to shut up and let me drive. I work the clutch how I want, and the gas how I want, and just pass out or something already.  Made me so mad, and made me start thinking about all the mean things that guys have said to me this year, and that made me upset. Then the stove thing, and this headcold, it’s a sic sad spiral. I hope I get to climb tomorrow.

Andy suggested putting my harness on and sitting under the climb I want to do with my thumb out and clown makeup on. I’m giving it two days of concerted effort, then moving on to Spain to pester my friend pepe’s friend, and capt bastard’s friend who is in the circus. My plan, worst comes to worst, is to lay on the beach in southern france and sleep for three weeks then meet Gustavo in Mallorca. MALLORCA!!