All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

coolness March 22, 2011

The weekend looked way up after my sick day. I ran out last minute to see my favorite band, Screeching Weasel, perform at the Scoot Inn for sxsw. It seemed weird when Merrick texted me that they were playing. They are NOT a very sxsw-y kind of group, being old, cult, and despising everything that…well just pretty much everything. I’m so glad I went though. I absolutely love that band. The singer whined the whole time about what a racket SXSW is, and how it’s just a big spring break clustercuss of self-proclaimed tastemakers and cocaine folk going to “showcases” for labels or cool crowd free shows for cool crowds. I kind of hate sxsw too, and I never stay in town for it. But last year I had a little bit of fun at the end, and I’m glad I made it back again. Merrick got annoyed at the band and left early, since the singer told all the media asshats they had to stand in the crowd if they wanted to take pictures. He thought it was rude. I was like, dude, what show are we at right now? I loved every minute of it, even when the singer punched two women and was dragged off the stage. They played were on stage for almost a full hour (long for a showcase I think), and I got to dance and sing and pump my fist and get knocked in the nose by an elbow then go home psyched and reeking of show. Pop punk is the best when it’s too pop for punks, and too punk for pop. I kinda think there’s a spot in that continuum that’s perfect for me and SW just nails it.

The next night I tried to go to the Saylorking’s hyde park backyard Appalacian roots music party for a change of pace, but I either got lost or missed it, cause it didn’t pan out and I wound up running around with Rebecca and company in a bars and downtown and artsyness circuit. Good times.

But the best best best part of the whole weekend was when Jeremy from Hattisburg came through town on his way home from Hueco. He and his beautiful girlfriend Alex came to a bbq at the Thornton’s, then a perfect evening session at McKinney (where I got a a high point on BOTH el camino left and QJ (foot move only)) topped by a steaming plate of enchiladas.


Got a new phone that takes weird, hard to see pictures. This is Jeremy.

This is alex, also of Hattisburg. She's just getting into climbing and when I asked how she liked being on a bouldering trip she was like, "I'm not used to all the ... hiking"


and Blaine was there! I haven't seen him in many months and it was so good to climb out there together. idk why I'm always asking blaine to do silly things for pictures. He just does them so well I guess.

So kind of a perfect day. Jeremy is, for me, a lot like Texas Steve from Eat, Pray, Love, the guy at the ashram in India who gives a lot of salt-o-the-earth spiritual guidance and long-haul perspective.

His perspective and encouraging, sane words have stuck with me since we met in Mallorca, and I got to re-up on their visit.

I am so psyched on MK right now. Gonna rest all week then go out with several pads on a cloudy evening and try to send some projects before the heat truly sets in and I skip town.


you can totally stop my shine, actually March 3, 2011

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 7:59 pm
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I’m going through kind of a klutzy phase, and it came to some kind of apex on Tuesday when I took my first ever horrible ground fall. Typical headstrong stupid rock climber behavior, I was circuiting at McKinney by myself listening to Jason Derulo.

My current “alone at Mk” circuit is this: Traverse high, traverse low, traverse wherever with no feet, then do the lunge, the two worth doing, and the monopop from as low down as I can pull on, do all of those twice. Then the prow with sloppy big shoes on, then power slide minus the last move. Then I move down and go into a ‘single moves and systems’ thing on harder problems I don’t want to do without a spot. I figure it’s a good use to my time to dial the insecure low moves so I don’t waste time when I do have a cohort. I practice starting and hardest moves on el camino left, qg, seige tactics from low, trap freak and geek. I try each move like 5-10 times each, hopefully hitting it 40%, then I go home.

But I guess Jason Derulo gave me some false swaggar or something, because when I was doing the first little part of seige tactics, which is not super hard but kind of painful and inconsistent, I thought ‘why don’t I just stick my foot up here by my hand and see if I can balance — NOPE.’ I fell on my right hip onto a rock, missing the stupid pad. It hurt so bad, and it took forever to get my headphones off which made it worse. Once I realized I wasn’t paralyzed or broken, I started ranting out loud about how lucky I am, and dragged myself out of there.

I think I’m fine, psychologically. It was just such pure idiocy and ego, and I don’t feel hesitant to get back on. My butt hurts and I have a huge gnarly bruise, but it feels a little better every day, so hopefully I’ll be in gear again by Sunday. It’s only a little worse than the time I fell off of the boat onto the slab/water at Amistad, banging my knee and scraping my thigh to high hell.


behold the ugliness, inside and out on this one

It’s bad enough that I blew off climbing at Reimers with Mike Personick et al today. It’s so pricey to get into that place, I can’t fork over 10$ for the pleasure of hobbling around and not being able to flex my right leg. OH! I went out with Hannah on Monday and finally did Raindance, so that gave me a nice five-twelve feeling. Everything else is fine. I hate looking at this picture, actually. It was a low moment on a rough trip. But then again, remembering lousy times also makes me happy, because they’re over.  Told me get my ish together, well now I’ve got my ish together. I’m jumpin in my ride and wearing shades etc.


Back in the basic/Black/Saddle Again October 19, 2010

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 3:05 am
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After my long trip I touched down in Austin and worked 6 days in a row teaching gymnastics. A coworker hurt herself so I covered all her classes and a few extra, and it was a total blast as I had missed hanging out with 7-year-olds. I never imagined that I would say or think that, but there ya go.

Anyway, I finally went climbing again on Friday at McKinney. The weather was perfect and I was almost alone the whole time, which is how I like it. But I was, as is my usual day 1 of the year at McKinney, tragically weak. I fell off the prow on my first try, which is kind of my litmus test for the day/season. Then I couldn’t remember anything about how last year’s never-go project Power Slide worked. I tried out my new Dragons but they hurt my toes beyond usefulness. AO says I’m just a pansy because I haven’t been stuffing my toes into Dragons for 15 years. Gonna keep trying, as their shape and the tight heel and pointy-point toe carry so much promise. I worked the circuit on the main wall and tried to relearn projects for 2 hours, which is a long session there for me. I bailed feeling happy to be back at McKinney, but a little worried about my ability to pebble wrestle with authority.

Last year at McKinney on the 'manually stuffed heel hook project' with Capt. Bstrd. Carl Antone took this sweet picture, but I can't stand whatever is going on with my hair.


Then I went to the lake on Saturday with AO and TV, which was glorious. I think I was laughing the whole time, telling them about my trip and listening to their psych over Point Cove.

with TV and AO, loving life at Pt Cove. Erik Moore took this one.

I tried some new-school beta on Talk to Jesus, which was neat. I didn’t send it again, but I don’t care. Started working on another line that starts in the same spot, with some harder moves and strong, long, roof crimp issues. The boys have learned to do every move from one end of the tufa-crammed roof to the other. Their stoke seems bottomless, and it was so much fun to watch.


AO all up in the roof (by TV)

Capt Bastard all up in the roof (by Erik)

Eventually I started to feel like I had my lake legs and bouldering brain back, and I’m psyched to go for a third project (!). The water is cooler now, and the noon air temperature is about 85. It’s basically heaven, and I hope to go back a bunch in the next couple weeks before I head westward.

My new pt cove love, Murder Boat something. TV took this. He has a new photo blog, which is in the blogroll.

Then I went to Houston and climbed on Sunday at my favorite gym, Stone Moves North. I had a blast, made a new strong girlfriend, and fell off of a bunch of red problems, which at that gym = weaksauce. I am getting this kind of cool, passive acceptance feeling that Hueco in November might be all about v4++. Stoked. Plenty of projects.