All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

Whackamaze May 13, 2011

Filed under: Cars,Climbing,The Past — sendann @ 7:06 pm
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Wow, what a whack week! A few difficult things, and some really amazing things, happened. Here are some:



I passed my Pilates Certification exam! Lots of ideas and early-stage dreams around what to do with it. For now, training and substitute teaching.


My 1-month old Subaru that I sunk all my independent lady money into and traded the Trooper for, died, most likely after a jiffylube guy accidentally drained the transmission fluid instead of the oil. Apparently on this particular car it’s a very very easy mistake. Either way, my front differential fell apart two days later, and the part costs just a little more than I paid for the car. What a total bummer.


This cool mechanic from my neighborhood might buy it and fix it and sell it. It would be nice to pass it on to someone in the ’21.


I got to go to the lake with Louis in his new boat on mother’s day, and we both climbed the Kwai, which I’d been working hard on last time I went.


I told my free-to-spray friend about it and he kinda dissed on Kwai, and said everyone does that climb.  I know I’m way sensitive when it comes to the loop and the lake. Still, that’s not the agreement. You can’t downgrade or wave off a send your spray-friend is psyched about. Just you and me now, blog. So hey I did the Kwai. Amazing.


Nate told Serena that I “hate” her, which Serena told Blair who of course told me. Awesome. What class. Can you imagine? I guess Nate said stuff like that to me before, that so-n-so was not so liking me, but it was absurd and clearly a personal insecurity thing.  I tried to clear things up with Serena, who I’m not close to but don’t feel hostile toward. But what can you do? I swear, things are going to be TOTALLY different when I’m in college. I’m also pretty sure Nate is secretly the vampire manager of jiffy lube.


I had my first Art of Feminine Presence class with, randomly but so sweetly serendipitously, John Garcia’s gf Lauren Sheehan.  I’ve been curious about her work ever since I peeped her on facebook, and I’m so thrilled to be taking part. It’s almost impossible to explain what the class is about, but it’s geared toward women who’ve been involved in mind-body, self-help, that section of the bookstore kinda work for a long time, and are reconnecting with their most powerful and feminine attributes and the core essential woman inside. Hard to explain. Learning a lot, having fun.

Whack & Amazing

I did a very small version of Brian Anathesdk@fh&ian’s v13 workout (page 12 I think). On Monday. It’s Friday. My triceps still hurt so much it’s hard to get comfortable even for sleeping.


I went on a date with a leprauchaun and he showed me where the gold is, and although I’m not feelin him per se, I got a new car. Calling it El Rav. It’s a rav4, blue and sparkly and the fanciest thing I’ve ever owned other than my wedding outfit, including houses. Pics to come. Arms too tired to raise camera. Damn ye, ba.


but we’re all gonna die anyway April 13, 2011

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 8:03 pm
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Kinda thinking the lake isn’t going to go for me this abbreviated summer season. I just can’t seem to land a ride. There is no classy way around asking someone if you can go out with them, at least not one that I’m smooth enough to pull off, and I haven’t gotten a shut down yet that didn’t lead to me feeling like a looozr.

I wonder if there is something wrong with me. Not wrong like I’m not a reasonable person or I should change my ways to be more appealing or something. But wrong like, maybe I’m just not someone you’d want to tool around on the lake with. Lifestyle-wise or perhaps something inherent in my personality. Totally possible, I am not everyone’s cup-o-tea and I’m content with that. Maybe I’m just not that in with those folks like I thought I was. Like on land we’re good because there is infinite space, but when it comes to picking your crew I don’t so much pull rank. That is kind of depressing.

I guess this is a situation that comes up anytime there’s a secret or private or obscure crag. A few folks have the key, and their immediate friends are in it too, and yeah. Then there’s, uh, you. I hate to sound so down on myself and pity-party over it, but whatever. It feels terrible and you came here to hear about my feelings so there ’tis. So after a month of no go’s, I’m thinking it’s not worth the sting. I’d be better off to just accept it and stay dry, rather than try and get so low when it doesn’t happen.

It does get me looking forward to a summer trip, though! I’ll be in places where climbing is legal and it’s all new enough to me so that the cutting edge doesn’t hold much appeal.

Yesterday I swam at the lake and land-bouldered at the el Duende, a spooky, dusty cave that’s exposed and fun when the lake is low but entirely submerged in higher water. Oh, this is my new bathing suit:

it looks lovely on me also

I did two easier problems that had been impossible last time I went there (in 2008), and that gave me a nice feeling. I’ve definitely practiced climbing a lot since then and it was really cool to see so much contrast two years later. The titular line, however, is stiff cruxin roof of impossible. I made maybe an inch of progress on the first (real) move. Here’s a very silly video from Duende ’08, staring me as “the girl who can’t do warm up 2.” But I got on same that problem last night, and it is SO EASY.


the future is on the interweb/the lake is within us (?) April 3, 2011

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 3:46 am
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hello, lover

Already into the boat ride hustle and yay! I’m hoping to get out on the murderboat in the next week or two, and climb in the higher-than-before-but-not-upsetting woot roof. I’m nervous that it’ll be too high and I won’t let myself get good heel hooks. I’ve been out at the other side of the lake all weekend in Pilates Teacher Training, and I keep staring out the windows at it. I love that godforsaken body of mankwater. I want to be on it so bad. If I were more Ron Kauk like, I would be able to express without irony that Lake Travis is my teacher, constantly changing yet the same, challenging us and demanding respect for the water is a force like no other and so on whatever something something. But I am not and will not.

But here’s the future:

So if I leave in June, it’ll be just as things are getting high and cow-covey, which I can feel ok about missing out on. And as long as I find stoked boaters willing to haul me, there’s plenty of time to get water logged and make moves. Moves. In the roof. In my new bathing suit, which is green and glorious and hopefully in a photo on the future-web!

upper image from cobalt boats, who rave about Lake Travis at the link

also, here’s my Lake Travis water levels RSS feed


Moore Lake Pics October 21, 2010

Filed under: Uncategorized — sendann @ 3:42 am
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Erik took some awesome shots at the lake the other day, and I had on my photographer’s choice pink top.


Back in the basic/Black/Saddle Again October 19, 2010

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 3:05 am
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After my long trip I touched down in Austin and worked 6 days in a row teaching gymnastics. A coworker hurt herself so I covered all her classes and a few extra, and it was a total blast as I had missed hanging out with 7-year-olds. I never imagined that I would say or think that, but there ya go.

Anyway, I finally went climbing again on Friday at McKinney. The weather was perfect and I was almost alone the whole time, which is how I like it. But I was, as is my usual day 1 of the year at McKinney, tragically weak. I fell off the prow on my first try, which is kind of my litmus test for the day/season. Then I couldn’t remember anything about how last year’s never-go project Power Slide worked. I tried out my new Dragons but they hurt my toes beyond usefulness. AO says I’m just a pansy because I haven’t been stuffing my toes into Dragons for 15 years. Gonna keep trying, as their shape and the tight heel and pointy-point toe carry so much promise. I worked the circuit on the main wall and tried to relearn projects for 2 hours, which is a long session there for me. I bailed feeling happy to be back at McKinney, but a little worried about my ability to pebble wrestle with authority.

Last year at McKinney on the 'manually stuffed heel hook project' with Capt. Bstrd. Carl Antone took this sweet picture, but I can't stand whatever is going on with my hair.


Then I went to the lake on Saturday with AO and TV, which was glorious. I think I was laughing the whole time, telling them about my trip and listening to their psych over Point Cove.

with TV and AO, loving life at Pt Cove. Erik Moore took this one.

I tried some new-school beta on Talk to Jesus, which was neat. I didn’t send it again, but I don’t care. Started working on another line that starts in the same spot, with some harder moves and strong, long, roof crimp issues. The boys have learned to do every move from one end of the tufa-crammed roof to the other. Their stoke seems bottomless, and it was so much fun to watch.


AO all up in the roof (by TV)

Capt Bastard all up in the roof (by Erik)

Eventually I started to feel like I had my lake legs and bouldering brain back, and I’m psyched to go for a third project (!). The water is cooler now, and the noon air temperature is about 85. It’s basically heaven, and I hope to go back a bunch in the next couple weeks before I head westward.

My new pt cove love, Murder Boat something. TV took this. He has a new photo blog, which is in the blogroll.

Then I went to Houston and climbed on Sunday at my favorite gym, Stone Moves North. I had a blast, made a new strong girlfriend, and fell off of a bunch of red problems, which at that gym = weaksauce. I am getting this kind of cool, passive acceptance feeling that Hueco in November might be all about v4++. Stoked. Plenty of projects.


halleluja August 11, 2010

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 3:37 pm
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Finally sent Talk To Jesus(/Chuy) last night, with the starting tufa about a foot out of the water. I nailed every move on it with no extra swings, and I think that’s just how it had to go. I was tired on the last moves, but got my feet back on and took my time on the sort of insecure top out. I’m so glad to have sent it, finally, from a  respectably low start, and it was extra cool because Vinny and all my favorite dudes were there! Even Gus happened to be out, which was a rare treat. We met climbing, but Gus and I climb together maybe once or twice a year. I forget that he even climbs sometimes, and I’m sure he does the same with me.


Capt. Bastard got a great video of the send, and after climbing we all went back to Vinny’s to watch footage from the last couple weeks on his fancy enormous tv. All the lake footage looked incredible with the HD camera. Then we watched old videos from the last two years of climbing in central Texas, and talked about how lucky we are to live and climb here.

So now I just wait for the water to drop, warm up on Jesus, be bold and do it from ever-lower starts. Here are a few grabs from last season when Capt first did it. I don’t know what my limit will be, but I guess I’ll keep running it until I leave. At the rate the lake is dropping, it’ll still be starting about 10 feet higher than in these shots.

I started with my feet just above where his head is

Will definitely need to converse with a higher force to get through all that roof climbing with 40 feet of air below me

Psyched. Hopefully I’ll have the video to post eventually. Now I get to pick my next project out there. I’m thinking Better than Soccer, this weird double-toe hooks line. I might not be able to reach the start anymore though. We’ll see. Amistad this weekend for a change.


Mas Lake Para Mi August 8, 2010

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 1:54 am
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Erik and Merrick and Capt. Bastard and pretty much all dudes don’t like this bathing suit. But most women, including myself, love it. It’s black, it’s modest, it makes me look curvy, and it doesn’t move weirdly while I’m climbing. Granted, it’s a bit conservative, and the black doesn’t make for those easy-to-compose “red shirt”photos, but oh well. Here’s more shots of me on Chuy, which I have now fallen off the top out of twice. Pretty lame, but it was a beautiful day/night out there anyway.


All these pictures are by Erik Moore. Thanks for making me look so pretty and strong, even in my downright Victorian-era one-piece, Erik!


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Merrick got some pictures of he and Vinny a couple weeks ago out there, working on a different problem.

So that’s the boys.


I worked on another line out there yesterday – the new, lower-water start to a warm up that I’ve finished a few times before. The new opening moves are sooooo much fun, big hard long stuff on jugs, but I kept falling at the link-point. I ignored Chuy all day and just took one run at the end, and fell in the middle. It’s cool. Capt. says I’ll send both of them after two days of rest. I think he was just trying out a whole “being sweet” thing, though. But I’m gonna try the rest and go thing anyway and focus on working, thrift shopping, Pilates, and rebuilding my itunes library after a dramatic hard drive meltdown (No thanks to HITACHI) until at least Monday.


Which reminds me, I’m finishing up my teacher training apprenticeship now, teaching my friends at the Joy Moves studio. It’s scary and exciting. I hope they like it!