All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

the good blues February 21, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Trips,Work — sendann @ 7:16 am
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I have a lot to discuss, like how I pretty much took down my other blog and why I did that, and how much fun my quick trip to NYC was this weekend, and this awesome pile of books I read, and these late night radio shows I’ve been catching. I also want to show you some videos of the gymnastics training center where I teach. I have a lot of ambitions, but for now here’s me eating delicious blueberries on Walker’s blog. I’m gonna start telling my little gymnasts, when they ask me why my veins are so blue (which they do all the time), that it’s from eating so many blueberries. Then they will stop eating blueberries, and the Austin-metro area supply will tip in my favor.

click through for the kearney journey blog. OH! that reminds me! Heading back to Hueco in March for a few week-ish-long trips. Gonna see Prairie and stay at the MastOdon, which wallace has informed me I have been mispelling for over a year.


wet westward ho’s January 3, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Family,Trips,Uncategorized — sendann @ 12:43 am
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After climbing in Socorro, which feels like months ago now jeeze!, I stuck with the Kearney family and headed to Pie Town, NM. Prairie and her family get together every year on the 21st to observe a very sad anniversary, but she said it was totally cool if I came along. I wasn’t sure, though, since it sounded like a private family event. Prairie’s boyfriend David was with us, and I decided to just take my cues from him. Their mom, Nita, is a glorious hippie New Mexico lady who grew up on the beach and lives in a huge log house in Pie Town. It’s one of those super hippy family houses that I love, where every wall is crowded with framed snap shots and random postcards, there’s strange, interesting stuff everywhere, all the food is home grown or organic and there are lots of very comfortable sofas.  It was fun to sit in her living room and think of how organized and spare Prairie keeps her van-home. My best friend Lily also grew up in a house like Nita’s, and her apartments are always minimalist and hyper-organized. Must be a skipping-the-generation thing.


Prairie's mom and her awesome house!

After a few days in Pie Town, we headed to Las Vegas, and I got to visit Flagstaff for my first time on the way! I sometimes fantasize about moving to Flagstaff, because I have some very lovely friends there and the bouldering and sports action looks like endless, convenient fun. We got coffee with Carrie, which was a huge treat. Carrie is over 7 months pregnant and gorgeous. She gave me this adorable hat…


it's my 3rd pink gift hat this year! I LOVE the little button.

Vegas itself was a little weird. I had never been there before either. I thought I could get into it, and maybe I might have if the weather had cooperated, or if I’d gone in Vegas, Showgirls party city mode. We spent the first night there boondocked in a WalMart parking lot, which I had also never done before. It was really scary. I did not like it. At all. Give me a creepy rest stop in France where I’m crushed in the back of my rented hatch back Ibiza any night of the year, I don’t like sleeping in WalMart parking lots. Apparently, however, it’s a thing people do on the road. There were a few full on campers parked there also. Still.

We spent the next day at the Kraft boulders in Red Rocks, which were kind of wet but pretty impressive nonetheless. I fell in love with this mega classic v4 called the Pearl. Then I pulled on a jug doing something very easy and it moved, and I was officially freaked. We got on some more potentially delicious problems at the Kraft, but it was super wet and the sandstone there is pretty fragile. I was nervous about falling unexpectedly, or breaking some key hold and having an angry mob run me out of town. The locals at the gear shop had urged not bouldering until things dried out more.

Walker Kearney took this shot on a cool dyno problem called Snake Eyes, I think.

Christmas day I spent at Starbucks in Las Vegas, missing my family and Hueco and the Mastadon and Austin, and being kind of Christmas bummed. I talked to my parents and sisters on the phone for a long time. They were all hysterical over issues with Katie’s wedding dress (the bodice is way to small). Fortunately Katie had brought some nice whiskey home from the UK, and everyone was pleasantly mellowed and watching the Muppet Christmas Carol by noon.

Then I talked to my oldest and dearest friend Jessica, who was also somewhat hysterical on Christmas over a very difficult couple of weeks she’d spent in New Jersey dealing with her extended family and the very sad death of her grandma.

I suggested, since they’re all in Houston, that Jess and her husband Dave go over to my parents house and drink it off with the Raber’s. It was so comforting to catch up with everyone.

After that, I decided to take Prairie, Walker and David out for the Jewish Christmas tradition of Chinese food. We feasted and talked and laughed, and I’d say it was an awesome and memorable Las Vegas Christmas. That night we parked in a random parking lot, which was freaky, and got yelled at late at night by large scary men with flashlights. Feeling rather like a one-woman holy family, no room in the parking lot, I headed back to the pricey Red Rocks campground on my own.

no donkey, but the wise el trooper in the night

It rained most of the night out there, and I realized climbing was going to be minimal and explodey for a few more days at least. I had a look at the soaked boulders in the morning, and decided me and Vegas were over for now, and that I only had so much of the dirt bagger thing in me. I kind of suspected as much. I like adventures and trips and camping and epic hikes, but I’m not a lifer. I called Lily and asked if I could show up at her place in Los Angeles in a few hours. I said bai bai to the Kearney’s, we made plans to catch up in Malibu for New Years, and I hit the road.

And now I want to move to Venice. Which is an issue for a future post.


da bizzox December 27, 2010

Filed under: Cars,Climbing,Picture Taking,Trips — sendann @ 6:45 pm
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A week ago I left Hueco with my friend Prairie, her brother, and her boyfriend, for some company on the way to California and to check out New Mexico, where I’d never been before. After a night in Las Cruces with their dad and other sister Autumn, we went to Socorro to climb in Box Canyon and get a new starter for the Trooper, which is running better than ever now. W00t!!


pretty sky over Montana/180 when I left Hueco

Anyway, Box Canyon is full of sharp, kind of soapy stone with lots of tweaky pockets and hardness.  The shooting pains in my fingers and repeated failures reminded me of home, so that was nice. Kind of. We climbed with Scott Roberts, an adorable local contractor type who’s writing a guidebook for the area. There could not have been a better tour guide. I tried to get back into picture taking for a while, and Walker was there as well, so here’s what it looked like!

Prairie chauffuring while the trooper was getting re-startered


The stream bed area with a huge warm up wall. But watch out it bites! (Picture taken by Walker Kearney)

Walker in the Motherload


scott and his awesome jacket
on “left”, a hard classic line I couldn’t do, even with Prairies colorful spot :=/ Picture by Walker Kearney

Wow, I’m wearing that exact same tank top right now.


jefe in front of this funky boulder with 50 problems on it. so good. Picture by Walker Kearney

on this weird line called "jah something", like reggae. hard with a dyno. I banged myself really hard on the top out. Like, bad. Picture taken by Walker Kearney



David hurt his pinky-winky on the first line we tried, and pretty much took this stance the rest of the trip. Hoping he's in better spirits in Bishop next week! Picture by Walker Kearney

It was an awesome couple of days in Socorro and the Box. We got on a bunch of other area classics, all super hard and fun.  I can’t wait to see the book!


wristal unrest December 17, 2010

Filed under: Climbing,Trips — sendann @ 4:42 pm
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Four days of no climbing and my wrist feels worse than ever, but the Trooper and the Mastadon are looking great. Of course I’m thinking about my wrist all the time and the constant observation might be warping my perspective. I also iced it aggressively yesterday, with colder, wetter ice than ever before, and that may have been a tactical error since it made my whole forearm sore for the rest of the day. Isn’t it weird how sometimes “whole” doesn’t look right, but “hole” is obviously much worse? I think so. I also spent all my rest time typing, playing guitar, and crocheting, all of which could tweak a wrist on their own. Darn. I should’ve just slacklined the whole time.

But ya know, I’ve had almost two years now of constant rock climbing without so much as a tweak, so I suppose I’m overdue for something like this. And I’ve had some intense mental and emotional injuries in that time, so maybe I can take this wrist thing as an indication that I’m getting stronger in those areas again, and can afford the kind of physical setback that might have been devastating back in the summer.

This injury also helps me hone my options for what to do in the spring, which is great, as I’ve been feeling passionately ambivalent about whether to return to Austin in February, or stay on the climbing road, or do something else. I miss home, and I have some good friends and work things to get back to there, but there are reasons I want to stay way the hay away also.

My plan, for now, is this: I’ll continue climbing, take aspirin and not worry too much about possibly breaking my wrist off. I’ll take a few more days in Hueco, then on to Box Canyon and Red Rocks with the Kearneys, a brief stop to explore SoCal with Ian and Brigit, then Bishop. After that I’ll leave my climbing shoes on the mainland and head to Hawaii where I’ll have only my Kindle, my parents, a big fat longboard and the consistent, gentle swell of Hanalei Bay (surfing kindergarten) to pass the time, although I hope to purchase a real ukulele and take a lesson or two. After that I imagine that I’ll head back to Austin and get back to work teaching gymnastics, start pilates teacher training part 2, ride my bike around the hood, go to my favorite yoga classes, meet JAO’s baby, cook lunches for Heather, do ab ripper X, and work my head off to pay down my ticket to Hawaii and the (what turned out to be needless) repairs I had done on the Trooper. Another two weeks off of climbing there, and that will be a solid month. Hopefully, assuming I’m healthy, I’ll get back into some glorious groove climbing at the cold lake, exploring the scrubby centex forest with the boys, doing old projects at Reimers, and take some looong weekends in Hueco.

When I have a plan like this, it doesn’t have to go precisely how I anticipate, but the detailed outline helps to set my compass in the right direction.

Onward, ho.