All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

Catchup December 19, 2013

Filed under: Climbing,Picture Taking,Work — sendann @ 11:05 pm
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No easy way to get back in then to get back in. Here are a few shots of Max and Liberty walking into Black Velvet canyon on Monday. Fun day!



God, I just had this super aggravating thing happen. I had sent a bunch of pics to a friend, and she shared them with her gear sponsors, which is  awesome because she is awesome, and the sponsors used them quite extensively in their social media ish, but I never got even a shout out of credit. I know, happens constantly and it’s not like my shots are pro fancy money shots anyway, but dammit. The stakes are so pathetically low in the climbing social media world, it’s almost aggravating how aggravated I feel over it, considering all I missed out on were potential ‘likes’ by strangers. There’s no money or material support of any kind at the end of this #rainbow of tags and hash and like-age, just more sips of tepid air and ephemeral encouragement to ‘keep at it’. Kinda pathetic, all the free low-quality content spiraling around out here, organized into categories and vying for some sense of officialness, shouting into an echo chamber. I’ve noticed this in several fields, but in the world of internet climbing more than ever, this sort of ‘exclusive consumer’ class who are invited to ‘represent’ companies as walking ambassadors (models) and buy products are a reduced rate (so flattering?). As far as I can figure, so long as you are giving an ounce of coin to someone else, it’s you who is sponsoring them. I don’t care if it was 40% off wholesale free shipping plus some free branded apparel. I’ve yet to see the van that runs on swag alone, and all a discount will ever be is an invitation to purchase.

Anyway, I’m pretty sure Peter Beal distilled these thoughts  better than I ever will here and here

Here’s another thing on the subject, but funny.

This is from the Alpinist, just awesome.



it means non-violence ps i wanna be the swan next time October 8, 2012

Filed under: Uncategorized — sendann @ 11:12 pm
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OOOOO I forgot to tell you! I’m working with the young, lovely company Yama Climbing as a member of their athlete ambassador posse. I did an interview and a blog post about my long, boulderful drive from Houston to Tahoe for them, and will be regularly reporting and musing on their site and facebook page. Yama specializes in colorful soft goods and bouldering accoutrements – sports bags, hats, chalk buckets, and so on. They do some custom work and offer free shipping in the US. I’m really stoked to be a part of the company. I’m hoping that one tangible contribution I make this season will be inspiring a line of leg warmers.


vanessa and I decided that all female climbers secretly (or openly) long to be ballerinas. And all guys, pro skaters.

I was in a yoga class recently, and they said that the word “Yama” means self-control, discipline, and non-violence. I’m not sure if that’s what Jezryl and her team had in mind when they named their company, but I think the concept really speaks to what I’ve been working on in my climbing (and non-climbing) life. I feel like there must be a way to be dedicated to climbing and continuously pushing my limits without throwing tantrums, snapping at my companions, complaining, going on psychotic training tangents, or otherwise flailing from within. I’m searching for it now, and keeping the concept of Yama, and Yama Climbings beautiful things close to me as a reminder, is part of the mission.


So next time you’re shopping for things, consider clicking some Yama.




brusha brusha brusha, my Climbtech Boars Hair Brush review August 6, 2012

Filed under: Climbing,Shopping — sendann @ 2:59 pm
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Before I headed to Rocklands, my generous friends at Climbtech sent me some samples from their growing soft goods and accessories line. I pretty much became obsessed with their boar’s hair brush, and made Vanessa take lots of picture of me using it for demonstration purposes. I’ll show you those in a second.

boom, it comes in 3 sizes. I can’t WAIT to get the small one for even deeper crimper digging

I’ve never been willing to try when it comes to brushes. I only ever have these nubby broken Lapis’s that I find under boulders, and children’s tooth brushes from pinata parties. This brush put me in a different league. You’ll recognize the climbtech brush line as “the black ones”, but with an extra long contoured handle and ultra-densely packed bristles it’s a little bit better than other similar ones I’ve seen in action. The denseness, and super dry nature of the boar’s hair, mean this little wand can degrease slopers and scour scum out of crimpers on the most popular double didgit lowballs in the world. You know, the one’s everyone thinks they have a shot at because they can pull onto every move and because, well, that Ann girl did it so it must be easy. I’m talking to YOU and you KNOW who you are and you FAILED so now you KNOW even BETTER that you are a GYM RAT punk with no business greasing up my slopers so go BACK to Nebraska or whatever. Mos says almost every female climber deals with this bs, and was totally compassionate, giving me no grief whatsoever for feeling and acting ragefull about it, and that is why he is the best best best.

But this is not a boyfriend review. Climbtech has the brush thing figured out, and having this one around gave me an edge where there was like, no edges whatsoever.


see all that excess chalk smokin off that hold like…smoke

brushin’ slopers in the sun on ‘Tis is Africa’ at the old campground sector. my shirt is falling off?

So this picture brings up another interesting subject, mORPHO. Do you know what mORPHO means? I did not, but it’s all over the Rocklands guidebook. Occasionally, after a problem description, mORPHO. I just assumed it meant “bADASS” and started trying this bulgy arete mORPHO thing called “Tis Is Africa”.

See those long ticks? When I pulled onto the problem, which was a move in itself where I had to put my left heel and hand on first, then hop on one foot to the right in order to get the very farthest bit of the right hand start hold, I couldn’t see anything. I could actually barely tilt my head upwards. I spent about an hour slapping at each move, desperate to understand what was so mORPHO about this gorgeous hunk of rock, then I got distracted and gave up, and then we climbed on the iconic Teapot Boulder.

up de spout!

And then, the last night on my trip, I learned that mORPHO is a French climbing expression that means “height dependent”


pad shad July 12, 2012

Filed under: Climbing,Crafty,Picture Taking,Trips — sendann @ 11:19 am
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double strappin’ with pony tail in the rocklands

There’s no clear solution to this problem so far, but you really need two crash pads in the Rocklands. Despite what I assumed, there are no reliable sources of auxilery foam here – the campground sells some overpriced mad rock tri-folds, there are thrashed up rentals about as useful as carpets, and the borrow-on-your-buddies-rest-day thing has proved difficult to coordinate. We’ve managed to hoard a few of the best of the stash, but if I come back here I’m going to take my chances, bring 2 normal size pads, fly Egyptair and hope I don’t get charged at check in.


our mountain November 7, 2011

Filed under: Trips,Work — sendann @ 4:15 pm
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This summer EMA and I earned our keep by hiking up a savage scree slope and pretending to have spent the night in a bivy for Thermarest. These non-zipping up ultralight comforters were actually dang warm at 5am.