I completely dorked out a few months ago and googled every variation of “Athlete Nutrition Climbing” I could think of, read tons of really bad articles slapped together by supplement companies, and got deep into the search results, like page 7.
There was not a ton of info that was as specific and instructive as I wanted, but there was enough for me to only absorb a few of the lessons. Since then, I’ve had a dramatic improvement in the length of time I can perform at my maximum effort when I’m out bouldering/in the gym. Especially since coming to the Rocklands!
I’ve been here just over a week now, and climbed about 6 full days and 2 halfies. My skin and the dark of night have been the primary factors that end my day. If you’ve climbed with me ever in life, this would seem kind of suprising. I usually crash within a few hours outside, an our indoors, and am asleep in the shade with a doughnut while everyone else flogs projects. This new system has turned it around, and I’ve pulled off long days and multiple sends like whoa. Anyway, here’s what I’m doing, it’s as much as I could hold in my brain and life:
3-4 hours before climbing, big meal of whatever I want, with an eye to carbs. I usually have an egg sandwich, a huge bowl of muselix with fruit and yogurt, both, a bagel with lox, pretty much as much delicious food as I can handle, with an emphasis on the grains/rice/produce side.
I pack for climbing like a schoolkid on an anti-obsesity program. 100 calorie baggies with a 4 to 1 carb/protein balance, if I can figure that out. Otherwise just carbs. 2 bananas, half a LaraBar, 10 pretzle chips, or – and this is the BEST – 1/4 of a PB&J.
I do a 45 minute warm up of hiking/jogging/jumping jacking whatever, large muscle group range of motion-making, then easy climbing (15 minutes each). After that I note the time and eat 1 baggie.
Every 45-55 minutes thereafter, I eat a 100 calorie baggie, even if I don’t feel like it.
That’s it. And water, but not any more than my usual. I bring out 1.5 liters and usually have about 1/5 of it left at the end. I might chug some gatorate beforehand, and sometimes some supplemental energy something, but honestly I don’t have any of that stuff out here and it hasn’t seemed to make a difference.
Also, if sending happens or doesn’t happen and I feel emotional about it, I might gorge on all the baggies at once in an effort to devour the feelings. This usually ends the day right there.