our mountain November 7, 2011
This summer EMA and I earned our keep by hiking up a savage scree slope and pretending to have spent the night in a bivy for Thermarest. These non-zipping up ultralight comforters were actually dang warm at 5am.
ye old weekend bouldering trip September 25, 2011
Everytime I’ve ever said anything about wanting to go to Leavenworth, Allen would say something like this: “Do you know what Leavenworth is? It’s a Bavarian theme town.” And the way he said it would give me this feeling like he was saying I couldn’t handle it. “And? You think I’ve never seen a Bavarian theme town? Hello? Central Texas?” I was picturing, I suppose, something like Fredericksburg or that Chevron station on I-10 with the famous Kolaches.
But Leavenworth is nothing like Fredericksburg. Leavenworth is a Bavarian theme town.
It’s actually kind of a beautiful story. The town of Leavenworth was dying, there were no jobs, their mining heyday was long gone, and there was no relief in sight. So the townspeople decided to go for broke with this quirky dream they had, and wth, it worked. Everyone runs their own Bavaria-themed business. I met people running small hotels, hat shops, knife emporiums, cafes, pubs, gourmet sauce shops, whatever. If it’s an idle retail dream, someone in Leavenworth is living it. They can’t be doing that well, right? I mean, we’re all melting from economic woe, so I hear. But I’ll be, the shops were crowded all weekend, there was a long wait at the bratworst place, and I was not permitted to enter a hotel after hours to look at entries to a local quilt festival. The place had a freakishly good feeling, and my face hurt from smiling so much after three days there.
The climbing on this trip, however, was limited. It was in the 90s, so we got up at 6am and headed to Nate’s old projects until the sun hit. By eleven we were cooking breakfast on the beach and settling in for a day of ice cold water and blistering sun. Then another hour or two climbing in the evening.
I did a few warm ups every day, but my soul was tweaked/trip over. But what climbing I did do made me amped to get back to Leavenworth during a better season. But what is the season there? It’s terribly hot in the summer, and I imagine very rainy in the rest of the time, I’m not clear on the timing for it. It was a warm spell that weekend, though, and I saw the temps were much lower and it was dry a week later. Maybe early fall? I’ll aim for it next year.
repreZent July 18, 2011
Thanks for coming out to the dyno contest! It was the perfect way to spend another drizzler!
EMA competed, too, which was great since I learned a lot about dynoing from him last year on the Walrus. He was the shortest – and only non-lurp – guy in the top 6. He got 5th, and I think he was the only one who knew how to dyno. The rest of the field was littered with lurp action. Although the guy who eventually won was a total animal. And so was the girl who won. I got 2nd, and I think my highest dyno was like 1.8 meters. Thrilling. The girl who won wound up beating the Squamish record and punted just shy of meeting the world record. For dynoing on a woody in public. This is our sport. I’ve never done a climbing thing in front of people before, but as Australian David observed I had no trouble getting comfortable with the attention. Here’s a few of the official contest pics. More to come from Lotti…
i don’t feel like blog-writing June 18, 2011
Flagstaff is really good. Found 2 glorious yoga teachers, a cute coffee shop, and I’m loving tent life. But I don’t feel like saying anything else about it at the moment.
what else have I done?
That’s been about it. Got some projects I’m psyched on, but some may require a return visit in September. ‘nother post to go into that. Still not missing Austin, but I like the idea of a Feb-April in Austin kinda thing, time to to go to all my favorite yoga and pilates classes, do feminine presence class again, go to the temple there, climb bloc party and el camino, ride my bike around, have lots of lunch dates. Trying to check in with that idea once in a while, “do i miss it? nope. wanna go back in september? nope. k good talk.” A wave of reading and crochet psych, a cuteness, and plans for the rest of the summer-fall-winter are holding most of my attention these days.
OH! I have a nephew!
teeming April 29, 2011
So just when i was feeling like SUCH a b-teamer in local climbingland, POOF! Allen made a blog! It’s funny and awesome in the way I hope that SendAustin was funny and awesome. But his is very ‘boy.” I’m glad there’s a site like this around, but I’m more glad I’m not the one behind it.
We aren’t “pros”, we are better than the pros. We’re the mfkn BTEAM. We don’t do this because we want to, we do this because we can.
sluddin it up March 14, 2011
I was feeling pretty apathetic about my spring break trip to Hueco. I figured it would be hot and boring with most people gone already, and a heinous spring break college hell crowd. But, as usually happens when I come out here, I pulled up to the Mastodon, saw the stars, felt the dusty breeze, and big surprise I’m still in love. A lot of my favorite seasonal folks are gone now, but I had forgotten that my very very favorite month here is November, before anyone arrives and when it’s quiet in the hood. The vibe is similar to that again, and I’m feeling quite comfortable and at home. Joey and Lisa from Boone are still here at the Shindaggar, Gustavo and some other Mallorca boys are around, and even Jordan Shackleford, a cool dude I met in Bishop who doesn’t know what Prana is (in the yogic or tank tops sense of the word) is out for the break! Everyone who’s still here seems happy to be, and the park is full of new climbs and old projects in cool, shady caves.
Yesterday I tagged along on West with Allen and Andy and Ashley for some projects new and old. We found a possibly new but perfectly valid warm up area at ground level, tucked in with the grass. This short dome had 3 nice juggy lines and not far away there was a fun sneaker slab. We went to a fun hard project of Allen’s, and I figured out some beta for a slightly lower start, which felt like, ya know, a contribution. He sent it too, which was glorious. I was telling Allen that, since we’ve both been on the road and kind of out of our minds for most of the year, I think of us as being on parallel journeys. He was not amused, but the fact that he’s looking so strong, physically and in the mental/emotional sense after a tough year, is inspiring to me.
After that we went to Shroom, which I had tried earlier in the year and loved, but for this one hard move I couldn’t do. Well yesterday I still couldn’t pull it off, but the rest of the problem is fun and chill, so I don’t mind having to go back a few more times. The move I can’t get yet feels like McKinney. Same angle, close to the ground, sharp, just like the first move on Power Sludt. Heinous.
Today I was going to rest but instead went rogue with Gustavo. I had a tragic fall at the top of the Long Haul, which I was very psyched to have figured out with no beta and nailed almost ALMOST ALMOST all the way through in a couple hours. (video featuring some difficult to remember beta coming soon)
Next time. Then we went to a new problem he put up last week, and I got a nice little v3 ffa, “Beautiful Weirdo”.
I’m hoping to make it back to Austin by Wednesday or Thursday, to catch some friends who are in town and do some sxsw-ing with Rebecca and the neighborhood kids. But I’m having so much fun, I don’t know if I’ll be able to make myself go before I absolutely have to. OH, also, I did another totally valid v8 the other day, which makes, like, 5 or 6 of them! I think it’s my new 5.12. Ok that’s all. Andy’s about to boot me from the bathhouse!