SendAnn

All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

another hueco pun! December 12, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Trips — sendann @ 9:57 pm
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Couple things: Blame the horrible ranch barn wifi, but I managed to delete a bunch of comments the other day. They all appeared to have duplicated themselves multiple times, and when I tried to correct that, well, comments go boom. Sorry bout that.

SendAnn is an official media link of the 2012 HuecoRock Rodeo! Thanks baby. If this one thing works out, and this other thing that I hope works out doesn’t happen, I’ll definitely be there!

Hueco so far has been wonderful. For the first time I’ve accepted the “day on-day off” schedule that is the favorite among my most prolific and experienced Hueco climbing friends, and (go figure) it’s working brilliantly. It always seemed like such a relatively small amount of climbing time, I couldn’t justify it. I’ve just gone for two on-one off from the getgo. On that system a typical day goes like this: I warm up, eat, complain about my skin and muscles, sleep through the last half of a tour, and only ever have strong days after two days of rest. But so far on the one-on-one-off system, I’ve impressed myself with my day-stamina. I’m giving “one last go’s” at every stop, and working hard at limit problems all day.  So it’s probably an as if not more efficient use of my climbing time to just take every other day off and shut up.

My hopes and dreams list for Hueco is getting worked out too. I’m sending old and new stuff, getting over other stuff, and adding new things I hadn’t heard of. Here’s an update:

Did: troglodyte, bloody flapper (!!!!!!!!!), apres mort

Punted: Egg, Loaded, Alf

Over: new religion sit, because after revisiting the stand for review ema convinced me that the sit-start degrades the quality of the problem. Good enough, moving on!

Reshuffled: turns out “that tall thing by julio” and “The tall cool one” are actually the same problem.

Added: Bush League

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like sandstone in the hourglass…. November 9, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Over-Shares — sendann @ 5:43 pm
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Heather says my life is a soap opera. It’s not really, but I think by the time I tell her about things, I’m so worked up over whatever it is that my dramatic emphasis has lent operatic overtones to the tale. Here goes:

Ok so remember how I was all not sure about entering the Triple Crown in the advanced division, because I’ve climbed a bundle of problems that have higher numbers than the range for advanced, which is 5-6? I talked to a bunch of folks about it. Everyone who had done a Triple Crown before was like, yeah no, go advanced for sure. Open is super hardcore and you’ll be in your own league one division down. Other folks were like, eh, you’re on the line, but there’s no way you can do more than 1 or 2 problems above that range in a day, so yeah. Advanced. So I entered Advanced, and got second place twice, trying super hard to put as many 6s and 7s on the board as possible. I lost to this girl Kati, and this other girl Jill, and figured that meant I was in the right spot. But oh man I wanted to win!!

So then I went to Horse Pens, which is suppose to be the hardest comp of the tournament with the lowest scores. Brutality. Four hours in I only had 2 climbs on my card and had fallen off of 4 top outs. Dan was coaching me. Poor Dan. Things were getting worse, I was getting tired and discouraged. So Dan takes me over to this area with what he insists will be some doable 5s. At this point, I cannot imagine it. But he stepped up and demo’d the betas, and I was able to flash a few problems. Yay, momentum! But this event was packed with strong girls. Those ATL chicks from the Athens comp were there, I had already seen Jill crushing, and every problem I managed to finish I saw another female competitor do. So much for winning, I figured. At this point I just wanted to finish the card.

Then this weird thing happened. After I did those easier problems, this stranger person came up to me, knowing an inordinent amount of detail about my climbing, kinda going off about how easy these problems are for me. Freaky. I got a very bad, psyched out vibe from the situation, and ran away as fast as possible. Because that’s just whack-whack, and I still have 6 problems to do and it’s freaking 1:45!

The rest of the day was ok. Most of my fingertips started bleeding. I met this funny dude named Doug. I climbed with Kai, the youth strongman who’s mom Connie is the trooperiest trooper of the triple crown. I did more problems, lots of falls, lots of punts. Got a heel-toe cam stuck and almost broke my femur, the usual. Finally finished my card, blood and tears all the way up a terribly hard 4 called Slush Puppy that took 5 tries. Then I ran, RAN, to turn in my card on time. My score was medium-low, and I was resigned to not place. Went and ate my feelings via smores at the Pretzl tent. Learned this joke for when you’re eating smores that goes like this:

You’re killin’ me, Smalls

So finally they post scores, AND I WON!!!!

Finally!

Won by about 100 points.  Oh my god, so excited to have finally won. AND I was sure I had a shot at being the over-all champ of the tournament for the advanced division.

So then Chad comes over and is like, ‘we need to talk’. He and Jim, the Triple Crown organizers and both super glorious dudes, are like, ‘someone came up here and told us that you did a v9 two weeks ago.’ Flummuxed, I was like, yeap! Two weeks ago, in Boone. My first one ever! It was so hard and awesome! Why do you ask? Well it turns out that one of the rules of the triple crown is that if they hear that someone did a climb at some point that’s rated way higher than the climbs in their division they get bumped.

Now, I don’t mind getting bumped from a prize-getting perspecitve, I don’t have room for another crash pad or  jacket – I’m in this for the glory. But are they saying that I cheated? That I sandbagged myself by entering advanced and could have climbed harder than I did, posting a ton of 7s and 8s or something? Because, wow, no. At least I don’t think – no.  I tried a bunch of harder-numbered problems during the event, and the two I managed were on my cards. And I kept getting second! If I were so out of place, wouldn’t I have been doing better? Oh, mercy the injustice!

No but really, I’m horrified to think that Jim and Chad thought I cheater sandbagged myself. Or worse, that I WAS being a cheater! And two, that someone stalked my 8a spraycard then cared enough to try and knock me off. Because that is creepy. And kind of mean, right? Granted, I stalked Jill’s after her LRC crushing and soothed myself by noting that she had some pocket problems out there. But I wasn’t about to go remembering that or telling anyone.

Anyway, I went back to Chad and Jim and told them I was over it and fine with a bumping, but that this whole thing was rather subjective and slip-shod. They said they hate divisions anyway and want to have no divisions among adults at all but give prizes for the top 15 placers. Then they said that when they bumped me into open, I ended up getting 3rd for the tournament.

that'd make me the one in glasses!

Wow. How did that happen? I think it was the psychotic consistency. Because I was never close to the open scores at an event, but going to all three comps and posting reasonable scores, then being a little ahead at Horse Pens, I managed to eek in there. So it ended up basically rocking. I won a pile of gas money, and got to see myself ranked with actual, very very strong boulderer women. I decided that it all meant that there was a hidden cost to spraying on the internet. Dan decided it meant that I had arrived. So hey, I’ve arrived. Hi.

 

blargtown October 25, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Trips — sendann @ 4:24 pm
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In the last week, I have come up against some kind of less-than-stoked wall. I think one reason is over-exposure to plastic. On some spiritual, biological level, I am allergic to indoor climbing. It gives me stabbing pains in my fingers and a watering in my eyes and an over-all malaise in my life when I do it more than a few times a year. Which has been great the last two and a half years that I haven’t been doing it. But this ABS thing had me crimping neon three times in the last 6 weeks, and it’s caught up with me something awful. My hand hurts, and I’m having these rogue thoughts that rock climbing is not that awesome after all.

Which is odd, because I swear I had a genuinely awesome time at the Athens comp at Active Climbing, the coolest gym ever with the silliest name. The owner is super low key, non-ego guy named Adrian, psyched on having a gym that serves the folks of Athens. He reminds me a little of Luis from La Posada. The setters and workers all seemed happy and talk about how awesome their gym is even when they’re outside. And the lines I did that day were some of the funnest, hardest gym lines I’ve played on before (special props to the brown dihydral (O-3 I think), and the pale blue overhang in the kiddy room (O-17, which I could not do sogood!!!). So it was an awesome day on fun routes. I got creamed, like, creamed corn in a blender, by a couple of high school girls from Atlanta. What’s with me always getting beaten by enormous German women? Remember the dyno comp? I’m sayin! God bless them they were fun to climb with all day. They live for plastic and don’t know anything about the world of outdoor climbing or, apparently, their approximate geographical location. So the day was decent. But with no swag and only one modest cash prize, I was annoyed to have gone all the way down there for one expensive day on plywood. I told my mother about it and she said,

“Well my dear, this is only the beginning. You shall suffer many more defeats at the hands of the young.”

Another awesome thing, however, was that I got to climb with this amazing girl in the Youth D division named Helen. Helen is – I’m callin it right now – the future of climbing. We met when I complimented her outfit. She had on argyle tights and a sparkly skirt with her team t-shirt, and a Chimp Crimps owl chalk bag.  She was quick to tell me she has an endorsement deal with Chimp Crimps and touted the value of their stuffed animal chalk bags. At the end of the comp, Alex pulled down his circus silk and trapeze, and showed his skills to the chilluns. Helen, it turns out, is also a skilled circus acrobat, and did some pretty radical, terrifying tricks while we waiting for awards time.

alex watching, helen on the trapeze

That’s one thing that’s been a real blessing from the ABS comps – getting to spend time around kids. I miss teaching gymnastics, and having that energy around me of young folks crushing at some athletic something. Also, always at these comps, kids and parents approach me with the most amazing compliments: that they were super inspired or enjoyed watching me or were pulling for me in the finals and stuff like that, which is so SO nice to hear and definitely stokes the climbing fire. ABS has been overall a very encouraging, fun and validating experience. But I’m glad to be done with the plastic game for a looooong while.

for her style, psych & skill, Helen is easily one of my top climbing heros

I’m not sure why else I might be feeling the blargs. A few visits to Blowing Rock this week and, hopefully, some project fun, will probably snap me out of it. Oh! Alex and I went to LRC on Sunday and I got to finish a couple things I’d ignored on Triple Crown day in favor of high volume. I also found a project that I am in love with. It’s called Grimace, and it’s a  series of sloper rails, like a slightly longer Gibbs Cave. I did all but the last move to a jug, and I hope I get back there soon to finish it up. It’s in this lovely, tiny cave and hang on I’ll look for a picture of it to show you….

I can’t find one, but it’s a very popular line. I’ll take a picture next time I go.
x
Alright I feel a little better now. Mom and I, whenever we talk lately, have been consoling ourselves through trials by remembering that sooner than later, we shall be in Hawaii.

bye bye plastic and tweakage!

 

Dawne Draber October 14, 2011

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 3:09 pm
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So I’m in the Stone Fort highlight reel TWICE! Once I’m called “Anne Draber” and the next time I beach whale a top out. There’s one uncredited time in there where I just fall in the background. It’s been going so, SO great!

I mean come on, my name is on the results page, this is not hard. This problem was neat. Sent in front of a bunch of girls, then ran away before I could contribute beta to potential competitors. We've come to this, folks.

This is a crack called "Devil's Cabana Boy", and it was my last problem of the day! I'm embarassed by my shoulder position and top out stylz. at least it's not under my real name? I need to be more gracefull, as of last week.

But the Triple Crown really has been going well for me so far! I’ve gotten second place in advanced twice, both times all three placers were within 1000 points or so of each other, so I think I made the right choice in my division selection. The girl who won at Stone Fort got 3rd at Hound Ears. We have no facebook friends in common, but I stalked her 8a, and she had some pocket problems in Chattanooga, so ya know, there’s that.

That shirt is a Gap Body halter from Pearl’s in Squamish, and those pants are these most perfect Mossimo4Target ones that I have in 5 colors. I’m wearing them in almost every recent climbing photo. Did I tell you I cried only ONCE at the Stone Fort comp? It was mid-day, in a crowded situation, and went on for about ten minutes. Awesome. Thankfully that did not make the highlight reel. Thanks, Scarpa guy with video camera!

 

fast train October 12, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Picture Taking,The Future,Trips — sendann @ 2:55 pm
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My first stop on the way from Leavenworth to Boone was in Missoula, to spend the night with Molly and Brandon. It was so good to see them, and I was bummed to be a few days late for their local climbing festival. Molly told me all about her new horse, Caper, and how stable and awesome he is. She had this very beautiful but very high maintenance horse when she was living in Austin. He had some kind of chronic pain condition that contributed to him being an almost constant jerk, and dangerous to ride. She finally sold him to a relatively inexperienced rider with a horse veterinarian in the family. The new owner seems to have the money and resources to take care of him, and doesn’t ask much of him in the ring. So it’s a reasonable, if unlikely match. Molly’s new horse is gorgeous and smart, and she’s been showing him around the region with great results. She said, “he’s the same horse every time I ride him.” Whereas the last one, she never knew who she was gonna get, and nothing she did helped him for any appreciable amount of time. But she can ride Caper anywhere. “I ride him next to the highway, trucks are going by, he’s fine. A train next to us, he’s fine. Now we’re gonna go faster. Now we’re gonna race the train! He’s perfect for me.” And it’s hard to imagine she spent so long feeling so bad over this sick horse who couldn’t keep up with her riding style and fancy horse ambitions. But it’s clear that the experience was traumatic and rattled her deeply, even though now things are quite perfect, and the old horse is doing well enough with his rich noob owner.

“Kind of sounds like men,” I said.

Then Molly asked me if I’d be down to do the 2 or 3 required USA Climbing local bouldering comps and go to Nationals in the winter with her. We could meet up! I said, “no way.”

The rest of my drive was full of amazing stormy skies from Wyoming to El Paso. I spent the night in Estes at Mama Bear Strong’s home for wayward climbers, and a fabulous morning on Pearl Street in Boulder having breakfast with Emilia, then coffee and shopping and a long talk with the Pigeon women. I pulled up to Shindaggar after midnight. It had been raining there too and the land was bursting green. I passed another great morning chatting with Andy, then had to drag myself away or risk staying for months.

And by the time I got to Austin I had decided Molly was right, it would be fun, and did an ABS comp in Houston before I headed east. I got to warm up with the Stone Moves team, and got some awesome coaching from Morgan and John from Team ARG. It was super fun, and I didn’t get beaten by any of the youth girls, so that was amazing. I’ve got another one in a couple weeks in Athens, and assuming she was serious, Molly and I will be meeting up at Nationals in February.

My predictions for Nationals:

I get second to last place in round 1

Molly goes to finals

Brandon and I get lost on a coffee run