All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

annie…. is an artist – says mom January 17, 2012

Filed under: Climbing,Picture Taking,Trips,Waves — sendann @ 12:28 am
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I’m not, but my mom also seems to think that global warming means something like more polar bears in bikinis so there ya go. My camera and I are at an impasse, so I made this collage out of google images, to represent my best day ever in the Hawaiian ocean, which was yesterday. Reelin’ rights on glass for hours and hours under thick purple clouds with old dudes and sea turtles and a big bunch of flowers bobbing around out there with us.

I’ve been in the water every day, getting significantly less of a facial beating than I got here last year. That’s all.

Oh, no not all! Look at this beautiful picture of coco and v7!

They’re getting hitched next week, and I’m so excited! Cody and Vanessa have been major friends to me since I first moved to Austin. Major friends, aside from this one time where I thought coco hated me for like a month (he didn’t), and this other time where I thought I hated him for ten minutes because he told me I would do fine in life without a man (I won’t, end of convo). When my darling Ned died a few years ago, I went directly to cody’s work and ate cookies. When I had to move my entire book collection out of my ex’s house, he came and lifted boxes for me. I’ve sat with coco and vanessa at countless dinners, getting perspective over enchiladas, and Cody always hooks me up with a ticket to the Texas Observer Molly Awards Dinner, which is like the best democrat hotel party in town. There have been no fewer than a dozen instances when I’ve made following phone call:


“whatup raber.”

“cody i’m crying.”

“oh no. (it’s ann she’s crying…no i don’t know why yet) vanessa says hi. what’s wrong?”

I also have this amazing illustration of a climber that cody did, but he’ll hate me for a month if I post it. Just visualize….

Is that all? Almost.

Climbing news!!

-Me and molly are all registered up for ABS nationals, which, fyi family, is not a contest where we oil our stomachs and flex, it’s an indoor bouldering match. I’m super, SUPER hoping to qualify for semi finals. No idea how that’s gonna go. Amped!

-I booked my ticket for South Africa this summer!! Here’s the ticket buying beta: Use the American Express Travel search tool. It only works if you have an American Express card, but even if you have a stupid tiny card with like a 200$ limit it still works. Freaking lower fares by HALF than I’ve seen anywhere else. It uses all your “points” or whatever to make it even cheaper, and you get “double points” for the charge. I’m super excited, and there are some amazing folks already set to be there too, like Val Ski!! And Jeremy, and hopefully Sarah Clark, and hopefully even more! Which reminds me, I want to do a post about Jeremy soon. Need to think about that.

So good things on the horizon. I hope the waves get smaller tonight because I want another day like yesterday.


fruh fruh April 1, 2011

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 1:59 am
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Went to Gus Fruh with Coco the other day. Trying to make the most of this glorious cloudy-cool snap we’ve been having, although it promises to warm up over the weekend. I don’t like the Fruh generally, because I feel like I’ve done what all I can do there, which is like 4 easy things, and everything else is a shut out. I only think that because I’ve never done the last loooong move on this otherwise very basic roof problem in the cave, hence I’m discouraged. But the other day I got on this random problem on the Whipping Post boulder for the first time. I have no idea if it has a name or anything, but this toothy crimp caught my eye and I was able to do it easily after Coco demonstrated. Here’s Merrick on the Whipping Post a few years ago. The new one I did is the second one he does, where he breaks a chossy foot (still fully functional).

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127 seconds February 27, 2011

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 6:41 am
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Last week coco hung draws on a random Reimers 12a for me. I know it’s so noob nerdy but I still feel like a total baller when I do a new 12. I have this fear that on any given day I’m gonna lose my ability to rock climb so there’s really never any time to waste, and I didn’t want to futz with draws. Hang the long ones, coco! And yay! I did it first go, then coco followed it up to clean (servicy!). So I’m lowering him, and we’re yammering on about nothing, and a huge hunk of my hair gets caught in the ATC. Everytime I moved it gets pulled in further, following the rope through the metal, then curling around¬† and up the other side oh my god oh my god oh my god coco my hair is stuck in the ATC shit it just went in further oh no.

He was still pretty high up,¬† dangling in empty space, no easy trees to reach or anything. I felt him swing the rope a bit but nothing. There was no one at Reimers. We’d seen a hiker down by the river earlier, but the place was dead (on a cloudy 67 degree afternoon because people in Austin have no idea). I looked at our stuff, out of immediate reach but, eh, maybe.

“Do you have a knife?” I asked.

“Uhh, I do, but it’s in my bag, way over by the other wall.”

We stood/hung there saying “Ummm” and kinda laughing. The day had started with Vinny’s dog….well nevermind that’s another epic. Ummm. I grabbed my hair and tugged it just to see how it might feel to, ya know, lose it by force. It was a lot of hair. I broke a few strands. It was a lot of hair.

I looked at the dogs, and pondered how they might help. Nothing came to me. The ATC was getting closer to my scalp.

I pinched the lock off at my head, then coco grabbed the rope and did a weird rope pull up, and I got it out. I lost some length, but no blood. So Aaron Ralston right now. OMG, he has my same initials!! It was MEANT TO BE.