SendAnn

All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

watch what I’m thinking? don’t worry it’s about bouldering. September 24, 2014

Filed under: Uncategorized — sendann @ 12:28 am

Summer is over. I am awed by how much I was able to get through in terms of training, trips, family, surfing, homemaking, cooking, yoga and alllllll the rest, and by how much I had to let go of when it finally ended. I’m working on a longer post about the summer and its wonder. But my mind has turned, as it so often does just ahead of my writing, to the fall season. I am leaving the one week for a month in Switzerland, granite bouldering pre-season tradition continues! I’m sad that moses won’t be joining me, because I will miss him, but I also know that this trip will be good solo experience. It’s not a huge amount of time, and I want to really dig into Magic Wood, read, not be upset or stressed by bad weather or heinous exchange rates, and hang with some of my Euro girls and a few folks from here who will be there at the same time.

I’m also, of course again, thinking about Hueco and Bishop. I had a fun talk with Melissa today about Hueco plans and dreams for the season. I’ve made two videos of the Buttermilks, which seems to indicate that I am thinking about them. Here they are. No sending happens in either, but I apparently am so into video making now (which was a Jewish New Year’s goal of mine like 2 years ago so yay!) that it’s become my medium of choice for documenting whatever is in my mind and heart. And it’s things at the milks that I haven’t done yet. I hope you enjoy! Oh, these link to the vimeo page.

Paula Demonstrates some hard beta for a hard problem that is not on my list this year, but, you know, you never know.

Paula demonstrates some hard beta for a hard problem that is not on my list this year, but, you know, you never know.

And here is my atmospheric Buttermilks rain date video, wherein I work on and do some of the moves of Center Direct, on my list this year but as I said, you never know.

Screen Shot 2014-09-23 at 5.27.25 PM

 

Aloha and mahalo for visiting SendAnn! December 19, 2013

Filed under: Uncategorized — sendann @ 11:17 pm
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I’ve moved!

But I left all my stuff at the old place.

You can stay here at my old place and look at my old stuff if you like, and when you’re ready, come on over to my new digs. They FANCY. Come over and check out my climbing, Pilates and Yoga teaching, pictures of me and pictures I took, events, projects and of course continued consistent journaling about my climbing, friends, feelings, and my thin, dry, straight, luscious, horrible, beautiful hair.

You can click the pic to link. Thanks so much, I hope you like the new site. See ya soon!Merrick Ales Photography

 

it means non-violence ps i wanna be the swan next time October 8, 2012

Filed under: Uncategorized — sendann @ 11:12 pm
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OOOOO I forgot to tell you! I’m working with the young, lovely company Yama Climbing as a member of their athlete ambassador posse. I did an interview and a blog post about my long, boulderful drive from Houston to Tahoe for them, and will be regularly reporting and musing on their site and facebook page. Yama specializes in colorful soft goods and bouldering accoutrements – sports bags, hats, chalk buckets, and so on. They do some custom work and offer free shipping in the US. I’m really stoked to be a part of the company. I’m hoping that one tangible contribution I make this season will be inspiring a line of leg warmers.

 

vanessa and I decided that all female climbers secretly (or openly) long to be ballerinas. And all guys, pro skaters.

I was in a yoga class recently, and they said that the word “Yama” means self-control, discipline, and non-violence. I’m not sure if that’s what Jezryl and her team had in mind when they named their company, but I think the concept really speaks to what I’ve been working on in my climbing (and non-climbing) life. I feel like there must be a way to be dedicated to climbing and continuously pushing my limits without throwing tantrums, snapping at my companions, complaining, going on psychotic training tangents, or otherwise flailing from within. I’m searching for it now, and keeping the concept of Yama, and Yama Climbings beautiful things close to me as a reminder, is part of the mission.

 

So next time you’re shopping for things, consider clicking some Yama.

 

Thanks!

 

this is how one flosses September 2, 2012

Filed under: Uncategorized — sendann @ 3:08 pm
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And now I’m settled in Houston for a month. I’ve decided to make this month a transition period between my wild, bouldering-packed summer, and the coming fall season of excitement. The gym is an hour away with no traffic, so I’ve decided to just not go at all.

I’m committing to a long rest from pulling, and a daily indulgence into my other interests. I’ve been and plan to be doing lots of reading, a new Pilates education chapter, a large-type yoga commitment, some looming sewing projects, and lots of family visits and facetime sessions. I’m also doing thing where every day I wear a dress, light makeup and impractical shoes in public. Because it’s Houston, and everyone at the grocery store is well dressed and “done”. It’s funny how an hour talking to my sisters or being in Houston completely resets my day to day fashion compass.

I’ve got lots of pictures and videos from the summer to go through and I’m stoked to share some of my favorite moments. I think I’ll start a new post now, like right now, to get that going.

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

sports action and ClimbTech June 19, 2012

Filed under: Climbing,Uncategorized — sendann @ 9:08 pm
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So last week I started praying for the motivation to commit more of my time and resources to sport climbing.

 

so ya idk wth bbq is up with my sport climbing but i have a few ideas

 

I think I have come upon a serious wall, so to speak, with de clippings, and I think I’ve been at it for a while. Here’s my story:

So way back when I was about 14 or 15, I was crushing some gymnastics, and then, in the middle of a strong training summer, I was so over it. And I had lots of lame reasons, and it felt like the right thing to do to quit at the time blah blah, but the truth was that I was terrified. I had come up fast in the sport, learned all kinds of awesome tricks, and swung bars as well as girls several levels beyond me. But by this point the next tricks on the list were really scary, and I spent a lot of time just half-trying them, not committing, bailing out, hurting myself worse in the process. I stopped loving bars and vault – the powerful, fast, upper-body-intensive events that drew me to the sport as a spindly 8 yr old. I started focusing on beam and floor, things that were closer to the ground and involved less aerial momentum.

 

With no new tricks, though, I got discouraged. My teammates learned the new vaults, did bar releases,  giants, complicated dismounts, and I just plateaued like wow, so bored right now.

Fast forward 17 years or so, and  I feel like I’m in a simliar place with sport climbing. I haven’t tried a sport climb that felt honestly limit in….a really long time (not counting the 11a warm up at jailhouse that I only saw the top of once). I’m pretty sure the last move I worked and couldn’t do in sequence within a few go’s was the move to the drilled pocket on that thing at Reimers…wtf is it called? Next to Lord of the Dance-Dance?  Classiqe,  lots of chipping and drilled pockets? Anyway, point is it was 2009 at the very latest. And it’s not that I try lines and can’t do them and quit. I don’t even get ON them. I just take a few goes (or in the case of Jailhouse, a few WEEKS) to put moves together with rests and kneebars in the right order, then go back to the boulders.

So I went to Rumney with Leo last weekend and did my fear game. It was amazing to hang out with him and I think we talked almost non-stop the entire time, and I loved the area, but stuck to easy terrain. I’ve been forcing myself to do at least one 12a/bb at every sport climbing spot, and I got through that easily enough there, but jeeze ann, let’s at least try to pretend to be trying to try hard.

And I can’t give up. Serious, effortfull sport climbing has to be a part of my life. My joints can’t boulder season after season, and my heart can’t handle not climbing at all, plus I love it, AND I’m completely decent at it. I need it in my life in order to be fully myself.

So all that, and reflecting on my gymnastics experience, has lead me to the conclude that my fear of heights has become unmanageable, and is negatively impacting my life.

I have a functional fear of heights that limits my ability to climb my best when there are ropes or exposure involved. My ability drops a grade every 12 feet I climb up, and as I get panicked about that, and tired from climbing so badly, my vision tunnels until I might as well be looking for holds through one of those shoe-box eclipse viewer things.

 

 

this is my hard sport climbing technique

What to do? I had no idea so I started praying about it, which is where I started this story. After that I got 2 exciting and unexpected phone calls.

 

The first one was from ClimbTech, the Austin-based climbing and industrial safety gear company that made my pretty red quickdraws, and also makes permadraws for gyms and crags and the original removable bolt,  and a new line of climbing accessories. They’re starting up an athlete ambassador program, and expanding their line of sport climbing gear, and asked ME to be a part of it!

“You know I’m kind of struggling with sport climbing, right?”

They did, but feel certain that my extensive travel and vast enthusiasm will keep me clippin, and they’re willing to invest a little in me. So WOw! I’m honored and excited, because I’ve also been praying for a set of matching new draws. I feel like it would inspire me and it IS!

 

The other call was about a sport climbing trip opportunity, but more on that later.

 

Anyway, I’m headed to the Rocklands right now, like I”m at the airport, and need to go pretty much now. Let’s talk more when I arrive there and get settled, on Saturday. It’s Tuesday. Yeah.

 

princess of power! June 14, 2012

Filed under: Uncategorized — sendann @ 2:23 am
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Since I first saw this picture of Cedar bouldering in a ballgown last summer, I’ve thought about it at least twice a week. Her dress, and her concentration, are basically what I strive for every day in the boulders. And her expression is pretty much how I feel.

cedar getting some in CO summer 2012, Tscholl spotting, pic by thomo

On the same subject, I wanted to highlight what I think of as a glorious underground (so far) trend of shouting “I’m doing it! See?! See!?!” while sending. This also originated with Cedar…

click through for the video….

 

 

 

This is an ad from Rock Creek, who send the least spam of anyone when you get an account:

Entire line of Five Ten Climbing Shoes at Rock/Creek, plus FREE Shipping over $49

 

ho hum hueco February 6, 2012

Filed under: Uncategorized — sendann @ 8:31 pm
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this means it's about 7:20

 

got to hang pretty things around the trailer. to give the place "atmosphere"

 

the frecklage is out of control