SendAnn

All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

Santa Barbarianism August 19, 2014

Filed under: Climbing,Trips — sendann @ 10:50 pm
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With Moses away in Colorado for a couple of weeks, I’ve been doing some of the things I love that he isn’t too interested in. Hari Krishna Temple, popcorn for dinner, alarm clock at 5am. Also, going to Santa Barbara. Maybe it’s the Houston girl talking, but I can’t get over the Santa Barbara views and vibe. Everyone has a dog, the beaches are small and feel local, the summer surfing is very mellow and the boulders go on for days. Mo grew up with this stuff and wrestling crumbling sandstone in the heat never seems quite the best option, and I totally respect that. But it’s new to me still and so I went. If you can imagine climbing out of a mud walled well in a rainstorm, that is trying to get from south of Los Angeles to north of Los Angeles anytime other than between the hours of 1-5 am. But I got to Santa Barbara. I stayed with R. Tyler and his housemates and their dogs, and hung out all with my Bros including R.Tyler, Sam Cody and Jackenz, now NoSend Nate (hopefully an up and coming bro). Check out Jackenz and Nate’s newest Rawk Tawk video. 

After a few hours in the water at Emma Wood, where the waves come from all directions and it kind of feels like that Spinning Tea Cups ride, Tyler humored me with a trip to the Creamery – an area up Rattlesnake Canyon that I had heard about as having a few fun lines. Every time I’ve asked the bros about it in the past it’s gotten a response like “you should just go there and form your own opinion” (Read:”We hate it”). And yeah, it was a death march-y hike, and tops of the climbs were baking in the sun. But I was pretty excited and managed to top out I think 2 problems, and do lots of moves on a couple of others including the standout First Come First Served. While I worked on that one, Tyler and I got into a conversation about Austin and I got a wiff of my old Austin Anxiety feeling, which I had been altogether free from for the last couple of years. I feel flummoxed and confused and wildly misunderstood and unpopular. I’m not sure what brought it on, maybe too many different references at once. I managed to breath through it and do well on the problem. It’s great moves, reminds me a little bit of all the lines on the East Spur Mark of the Beast tour – Alf, UNcut Yogi, and That High Pro Glow. This line reminds me of all of those. Tension, sloper jugs, huge feet, weird swings that seem avoidable but take more imagination than I have, and mostly just really good fun on orange rock. Perhaps in the dead of winter I will go and try First Come First Served again.

It is really hot up in the hills right now, so we spent the middle part of the day in hammocks then headed to the Brickyard, where I was eager to give more attention to the notoriously difficult but seemingly simple line Grotesque Old Woman. Rumor is that the line used to be much more doable and has broken, which is easy to believe since this stone is basically dissolving before our eyes at a very, very slow pace. And not that slow at other times.

A Grotesque Old Woman, by Quentin Matsys, cir. 1513

GOW is a hard move, some fun moves, then a pretty scary mantle. My goal was to stick the first move. This stone is so featured and bumpy, it’s hard to accept that there isn’t a perfect foot for you somewhere. And if you just stick your foot on the rock and brush it a bit, a foothold will likely erode into being. I played with the traditional backstep beta. The some weird high foot flag back tricks, all shorting me, and finally settled on this weird double high foot frog out the knees and stand up method. The top is quite daunting, one of those stand up on a bad foot and just keep standing and slapping, standing and slapping maneuvers. It took a while to have the vision of my perfect method, but I love it and I’m going to remember it. People much more capable than me have eaten it on both moves, and the line doesn’t see very many ascents especially considering how much attention it gets.

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Stuck the crimp twice with this method but failed to reel in the swing. Le sigh, next time.

I rested and surfed and hit the thrift store the next day, determined to give GOW some send goes on Monday. We went back out in the morning, but were too late to get the early shade. Quick warm up and we ran back to the hammock and the beach.

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Find of the day at the thrift store

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Around 5 we went back for the unvarying perfect conditions that roll off the ocean and up to the Brickyard every day around then. I flogged the living hell out of Groteque Old Woman until it was too dark to really see the footholds, and retreated. Hopefully I will make it back soon and give it some more of what R. Tyler calls, ‘positive work’. I’m pretty happy to have figured out the moves in a way that works for me, and I know it’s going to go.

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A lovely setting for the boulder. I wish I could show you the view behind me – Channel Islands, massive sunset, Ocean and wow.

What a weird frame of bouldering mind I get into in Santa Barbara! The climbs are very hard for me but not in the ways that I’m used too, and it’s hard to find my focused grrrr try-hard on these problems. Probably because the feeling of the place is not very grrrr focus try hard for me. The bros have sworn off grades, I never see other climbers and certainly never strangers, and rather than dial in beta and executing it, I spend a lot of time experimenting with moves. Maybe it’s just inexperience on fragile sandy sandstone. I feel my fingertips moving a little bit and I just bail, I’m not sure what “bad but good enough” feels like on these holds. It’s also hard for me to just buy into the choreography, with so many little edges and bumps and options on the rock, I hesitate to settle on my beta and want to change my approach constantly.

I’m not sure when I will get back up there. It’s a full calendar for August and September, and I have a Tram project I’d like to get back to at least a couple of times, 5 weeks of Steve Maisch training, another trip or two to Bishop (waiting for a rainstorm :)), a quick trip to Texas and lots of planning to do for my 35th birthday celebratory month in Switzerland! More on that to come. I kind of want to live in Santa Barbara, but there are so many reasons to not. It is in the hopper. Going to have to see how life feels after the winter season. Thanks!!

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Regarding that time I went to Lego Land in Tahoe May 6, 2014

Filed under: Climbing,The Past,Trips — sendann @ 9:27 pm
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And hung out with Jim Thornburg….

 

legoland-jim

 

Island times February 14, 2013

Filed under: Family,Picture Taking,Trips,Waves — sendann @ 4:47 am
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good day in the waves (pic by my mom)

good day in the waves (thanks for the pic mom!)

 

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I’ve got a few more days left in Kauai. Been surfing and eating and internetting (you might’ve noticed) to my heart’s content. Feeling very lucky and thankful for the time out here with my parents, and in the water.

 

Forest Days with Ashley February 12, 2013

Filed under: Climbing,Crafty,Music,The Past,Trips — sendann @ 6:38 am
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Just little clips of little rocks, beautiful places, good company and flowing movement.

click to watch on vimeo. Thanks!!

click to watch on vimeo. Thanks!!

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I’m in a thing! October 24, 2012

One reason that I suspect bouldering is super popular is that it’s sooooo much easier to get awesome bouldering pictures than it is other kinds of climbing pictures. And awesome pictures inspire people to do whatever is in the picture, so we’re all bouldering.

see? easy as crack

I was kind of whining to Vinny a few months ago that it was awkward and hard to get good sport climbing pictures, and that was my excuse for not sending him and ClimbTech more stuff faster. He was like, Ann, just tell a photographer that you work with a company called ClimbTech and they’ll be psyched to take pictures of you. But I was too insecure. What if they turned out to be a shitty photographer or it just didn’t work out and CT hated the shots and it came to nothing? And the person didn’t want to be friends with me anymore because they jugged up and sat in a harness for hours while I flailed away in a tank top for nothing? How…totally awful, to lose a friend that way. So I haven’t done it.

Anyway, I’ve been intimidated to ask anyone to do sport climbing pics, until I got to Tahoe and asked Lauren Lindley to do it. Cause she’s an Austin person and I felt like I could totally ask Erik or Merrick to do it, and she’s in that club. And of course she was like, YES, before I was even done asking! Lauren is pretty much ready to throw all her enthusiasm behind whatever adventure or task catches her interest. She’s like the productive/creative version of one of those guys who are super intense about whatever they’re into, and if you get even five minutes of their glorious attention and focus on YOU you’re like, in love with them for a year and a half even though it’s never gonna happen because, please, that guy is in love with himself and his bullshit freedom, and eventually a chunky blonde. Like that, but Lauren’s attention is useful and genuine. Man, that brought up a very annoying memory from like ’02. Ew!!

So Lauren and her amazing friend Damion and I went out to tackle some powerful, tricky granite sport lines over Emerald Bay. So wow. I even tried something super hard for me! Finally! And ya know what, it felt totally possible! Her shots have been amazing so far, and I’m psyched to share them with you as they come out! A few were featured TODAY on the Tahoe South website, along with a very cool article Lauren wrote about our days up at Mayhem.

Click through for the article. Thanks so much Lauren!! Ps my dad wants to see more soon! :-)

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hobo stuff

Filed under: Climbing,Picture Taking,Trips — sendann @ 2:09 am
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Hey! It’s been an incredible and educational month in California, and Truckee/North Lake Tahoe is being added to my list of potential happy places to post longer term (others so far are Ashville, St George, and Vermont). I feel stoked on boulders, obsessed with sport lines I probably won’t get to try again this year, and ready to flee  south as the snow is setting in now. I’ve been going kind of insane on the facebooks lately, so sorry if you’re my friend and felt pummeled by a barrage of ANN RABER STUFF the last couple weeks. I got really bored one day in Houston and decided to just go balls to the walls with the whole ‘putting myself out there’ thing, and now I’m sharing the results.

Here’s a video from a quick session at a boulder near our campsite in Truckee. I got shut down trying to go to other areas of more renown, and anyway, here’s the hobo boulder….

 

click for the vimeos!

 

 

 

 

 

hueco preview October 8, 2012

Filed under: Climbing,Picture Taking,The Future,Trips — sendann @ 10:56 pm
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Swung through Hueco on my way up to California last week, and took a serious look/feel at the Morgue. Ana came along, and we took pictures with my new, amazing D3100, which short circuited that night and is now dead. Here’s a bunch of awesome Morgue shots. I think I’m gonna get the hang of this crack thing this year!

 

 

Hey ana! I see you’re standing at the start of the Morgue!

 

Ana starting the Morgue. There’s a kind of hard move near the beginning that I didn’t do, but I’m not worried about it.

 

 

that’s my purple ‘trying’ face

 

 

so then the crack seems to get a bit wider. I am a little worried about this part.

this is actually how I spent most of the session :=o

 

figured something out. sorry for so many pics, I can’t seem to pic a favorite and ana is so dang talented with the nikonz, i feel like i shouldn’t have to.

 

I guess this is my favorite, actually.

 

I worked some weird off-width roof bs through this next part, then did what I think is the end and top-out, but I’m not sure.

 

Sooooo, have you done the morgue? Does it end on that other boulder, or up the face near where the two meet? Also, do you have any roof crack bouldering advice? Please don’t hesitate to leave it below. Thanks!

 

Love,

ann