Last week, maybe on Monday, I woke up early from a warm, humid night in the el Rav, rented a bright red futon from the Liquid Dreams, and ran out into the ocean near York, Maine. It was a long, calm morning with a constant feed of slow, small waves and warmish water. I tested out my little Kodak’s water-proofability, and made this profoundly deep, abstract film about my experience in the ocean.
norfeaster! August 20, 2012
Ugh, that title is suppose to be like, ‘I’m in the northeast and it’s a feast of boulders and fun with friends” but I think it’s kind of not working. Hi!!
I’ve been back in New England for a little over two weeks, mostly in Vermont but traveling a bit to see friends and climb. I’ve been lots of places and have lots to tell, to the point where it’s kind of overwhelming. I went to Maine, where I sport climbed and surfed. I’ve been bouldering at the Burlington gym Petra Cliffs a few times with these two 12-year old girls who are super psyched, and I just got back from a visit to French Canadia to see Ashley Veevers and the Montreal crue, so I guess I’ll start there.
Ashley had never been to Smugglers Notch, so we took an afternoon to go down and I gave her the tour, as far as I was able. We took tons of pictures. I’m trying to earn the new dslr I’m hoping to buy by committing to taking lots of pictures with my crappy kodak that everyone thinks is a phone but is actually so much worse at taking stills than a phone. Some kind of ‘if you wanted pictures so bad you’d take them with whatever you had’ kinda idea. Pretty bad tho :o. But our Smuggs afternoon was amazing, I did a few lines I hadn’t tried on my last trip, and redid my favorite problem in the region, ‘Primate 2001 (V3)’ a few more times. So good that thing.
After climbing we went to Pie in the Sky pizza and came up with the most amazing toppings combo: feta, banana peppers, and bacon. It was like a greek cob salad on pizza.
So that was one wonderful part of the northeastern trip. More to come!!
Today I’m trying to decide if I want to go down to the southern Adirondacks and try to find Nine Corners Lake or Snowy Mountain bouldering zones, or just chillax in Burlington for a day. Either way, I’m heading out for family visits this week/end, then short stops to climb with southerners on my way down to Houston, where I’m planning to give my climbing bones an extended rest while I focus on antagonistic muscle conditioning, general physical and spiritual fitness, and mend all my crash pads and clothes for the fall!
brusha brusha brusha, my Climbtech Boars Hair Brush review August 6, 2012
Before I headed to Rocklands, my generous friends at Climbtech sent me some samples from their growing soft goods and accessories line. I pretty much became obsessed with their boar’s hair brush, and made Vanessa take lots of picture of me using it for demonstration purposes. I’ll show you those in a second.
I’ve never been willing to try when it comes to brushes. I only ever have these nubby broken Lapis’s that I find under boulders, and children’s tooth brushes from pinata parties. This brush put me in a different league. You’ll recognize the climbtech brush line as “the black ones”, but with an extra long contoured handle and ultra-densely packed bristles it’s a little bit better than other similar ones I’ve seen in action. The denseness, and super dry nature of the boar’s hair, mean this little wand can degrease slopers and scour scum out of crimpers on the most popular double didgit lowballs in the world. You know, the one’s everyone thinks they have a shot at because they can pull onto every move and because, well, that Ann girl did it so it must be easy. I’m talking to YOU and you KNOW who you are and you FAILED so now you KNOW even BETTER that you are a GYM RAT punk with no business greasing up my slopers so go BACK to Nebraska or whatever. Mos says almost every female climber deals with this bs, and was totally compassionate, giving me no grief whatsoever for feeling and acting ragefull about it, and that is why he is the best best best.
But this is not a boyfriend review. Climbtech has the brush thing figured out, and having this one around gave me an edge where there was like, no edges whatsoever.
So this picture brings up another interesting subject, mORPHO. Do you know what mORPHO means? I did not, but it’s all over the Rocklands guidebook. Occasionally, after a problem description, mORPHO. I just assumed it meant “bADASS” and started trying this bulgy arete mORPHO thing called “Tis Is Africa”.
See those long ticks? When I pulled onto the problem, which was a move in itself where I had to put my left heel and hand on first, then hop on one foot to the right in order to get the very farthest bit of the right hand start hold, I couldn’t see anything. I could actually barely tilt my head upwards. I spent about an hour slapping at each move, desperate to understand what was so mORPHO about this gorgeous hunk of rock, then I got distracted and gave up, and then we climbed on the iconic Teapot Boulder.
And then, the last night on my trip, I learned that mORPHO is a French climbing expression that means “height dependent”