All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

measured caloric intake, if that’s even a thing, is blowing my mind and changing my life right now July 3, 2012

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 11:27 am
Tags: , , ,

I completely dorked out a few months ago and googled every variation of “Athlete Nutrition Climbing” I could think of, read tons of really bad articles slapped together by supplement companies, and got deep into the search results, like page 7.

There was not a ton of info that was as specific and instructive as I wanted, but there was enough for me to only absorb a few of the lessons. Since then, I’ve had a dramatic improvement in the length of time I can perform at my maximum effort when I’m out bouldering/in the gym. Especially since coming to the Rocklands!

rocklands sunset by Jeremy Thomley

I’ve been here just over a week now, and climbed about 6 full days and 2 halfies. My skin and the dark of night have been the primary factors that end my day. If you’ve climbed with me ever in life, this would seem kind of suprising. I usually crash within a few hours outside, an our indoors, and am asleep in the shade with a doughnut while everyone else flogs projects. This new system has turned it around, and I’ve pulled off long days and multiple sends like whoa. Anyway, here’s what I’m doing, it’s as much as I could hold in my brain and life:


3-4 hours before climbing, big meal of whatever I want, with an eye to carbs. I usually have an egg sandwich, a huge bowl of muselix with fruit and yogurt, both, a bagel with lox, pretty much as much delicious food as I can handle, with an emphasis on the grains/rice/produce side.


I pack for climbing like a schoolkid on an anti-obsesity program. 100 calorie baggies with a 4 to 1 carb/protein balance, if I can figure that out. Otherwise just carbs. 2 bananas, half a LaraBar, 10 pretzle chips, or – and this is the BEST – 1/4 of a PB&J.


I do a 45 minute warm up of hiking/jogging/jumping jacking whatever, large muscle group range of motion-making, then easy climbing (15 minutes each). After that I note the time and eat 1 baggie.


Every 45-55 minutes thereafter, I eat a 100 calorie baggie, even if I don’t feel like it.


That’s it. And water, but not any more than my usual. I bring out 1.5 liters and usually have about 1/5 of it left at the end. I might chug some gatorate beforehand, and sometimes some supplemental energy something, but honestly I don’t have any of that stuff out here and it hasn’t seemed to make a difference.


Also, if sending happens or doesn’t happen and I feel emotional about it, I might gorge on all the baggies at once in an effort to devour the feelings. This usually ends the day right there.



2 Responses to “measured caloric intake, if that’s even a thing, is blowing my mind and changing my life right now”

  1. I have this really awesome scientifically broken down book on nutrition for endurance athletes at my house that is amazing. I can’t remember which one it is right now though, so if I remember later, I’ll come back and post it. But more likely, I’ll forget so I will apologize in advance: Sorry.

  2. jillc Says:

    Found your blog…hee,hee- good reads. So yeah, this is basically how I’d eat during those hellacious southern climbing comps where you have to do 10 ridiculously hard problems in a day. I’d also get that pre-mix gatorade stuff and mix it 1/2-1/4 strength and that’s a good way to sneak in some sugar. The pre-mix stuff is basically sugar as opposed to the regular high-fructose stuff. Have some hippie friends that make their own that has lemon and maple syrup (yum) but that could get really expensive. We’d also have lotsa fruit and a big bowl of some sort of whole grain pasta or rice dish. I think protein is mostly worthless (except for slowing carb absorption) while you’re exercising.

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