All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

endlessness March 28, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Shopping,Trips,Waves — sendann @ 6:33 am
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I got this shirt on my NYC trip last month. If you can’t tell, it’s the Endless Summer movie poster retooled for bouldering. I kind of love it, and I think it’s arbitrary enough so that half the people who would think it was kind of stupid (which 30% of me does) won’t digest it quick enough to notice. If there were ever a sentiment I wanted to promote it would be adventuresome bouldering outings, surf media consumption, and soft gray t-shirt wearing.

Here’s the original…


John Gill, here here! March 27, 2011

Filed under: Uncategorized — sendann @ 7:53 am

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west side problems, shorter than before March 25, 2011

Filed under: Cars,Shopping,Waves — sendann @ 5:43 pm
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I’ve been looking for a car in earnest for over a month now, and I can’t find anything. I’ve opened by mind and bank account and I think I have reasonable goals — air conditioning, Subaru,Honda, or Toyota, wagon, suv or minivan, 150k or less. I’ve been to see a few, talked to some folks, it has not come together yet. I think a part of me doesn’t want to get rid of the Trooper. With the nice cloudy and kinda cool snap, I think I might stop looking for now.

So this is a good time to explain my possible summer plan, because it relates to the car question. I’m committed to gymnastics through the first week of June, then I’m gonna pack it in in Austin, again, and spend a month in Flagstaff. It’s going to be so much fun. So much bouldering. Then, Lotti invited me to do a bouldering, sports action, AND learn more trad circuit for the rest of the season up in Squamish. So that seems quite possible. In between, I want to spend a few weeks in Encinitas/San Diego, to longboard more more more and check out Black Mountain. So, how bad am I going to want an air conditioner on that trip? I really don’t know. Is the answer obvious and I’m just missing it or being naive or something?

Ok, the other thing is I got a tax refund (whoopy!) and I want to get my own longboard. I got to demo a few in Galveston this weekend, and had a blast. I rode a nice local shapers’ model, and found the waves were super fun and mellow, if a little disorganized the first day. I was worried I wouldn’t even be able to catch anything or stand up at all on a shorter (8 foot!) board, but I actually got a couple nice rides! The drop in is not scary at all there, and I got up and cruised around pretty easily. So psyched for more.

I was at soundwaves picking through their kind of enormous selection and….

The freaking Kassia roxy board I rode and loved in Hanalei. Dammit. Although my accountant is awesome, he didn’t win me enough to cover such unexpected luxury opportunity girl boardism.

Ug. Not sure you can read that, but it’s $freakingpricey. Ugh. Ok, to buy this board online from Surftech is $unreasonable, so I’m almost relieved. I had a long talk with mr soundwaves, about how much I liked it and if there was a cheaper, similarly sized board around. He showed me a few other “girls” boards, but they were as fat as all the others and heavy, just painted pink. I want the Kassia board.

So I headed south to demo the local board and at least get in the water, and on my way swung by another of soundwaves’ 3 locations. They had the Kassia too, for way cheaper! But still a bit out of my reach. They have this special deal where if you go on a Saturday morning you get a big discount. I might be able to swing it. But on the other hand, and same as with the trooper, now that I have the money and opportunity to get something I’ve been wanting for a long time, I’m wondering if this is the right time to bother. I can keep demoing and renting for the year, and keep an eye out for Kassia on ebay or something, or look for something else in California, AND not have to worry about shlepping it around this summer. Even though I kind of totally want to.

So yeah, wah wah wah I can’t find the exact toys I want and even if I can find them I can’t decide if I really want them anyway. So sad.


Filed under: Picture Taking — sendann @ 5:21 am

I've been playing with my new camera and apps and maps phone, and this accidental shot came out kind of pretty, no? I think that's my steering wheel and a gatorade bottle


coolness March 22, 2011

The weekend looked way up after my sick day. I ran out last minute to see my favorite band, Screeching Weasel, perform at the Scoot Inn for sxsw. It seemed weird when Merrick texted me that they were playing. They are NOT a very sxsw-y kind of group, being old, cult, and despising everything that…well just pretty much everything. I’m so glad I went though. I absolutely love that band. The singer whined the whole time about what a racket SXSW is, and how it’s just a big spring break clustercuss of self-proclaimed tastemakers and cocaine folk going to “showcases” for labels or cool crowd free shows for cool crowds. I kind of hate sxsw too, and I never stay in town for it. But last year I had a little bit of fun at the end, and I’m glad I made it back again. Merrick got annoyed at the band and left early, since the singer told all the media asshats they had to stand in the crowd if they wanted to take pictures. He thought it was rude. I was like, dude, what show are we at right now? I loved every minute of it, even when the singer punched two women and was dragged off the stage. They played were on stage for almost a full hour (long for a showcase I think), and I got to dance and sing and pump my fist and get knocked in the nose by an elbow then go home psyched and reeking of show. Pop punk is the best when it’s too pop for punks, and too punk for pop. I kinda think there’s a spot in that continuum that’s perfect for me and SW just nails it.

The next night I tried to go to the Saylorking’s hyde park backyard Appalacian roots music party for a change of pace, but I either got lost or missed it, cause it didn’t pan out and I wound up running around with Rebecca and company in a bars and downtown and artsyness circuit. Good times.

But the best best best part of the whole weekend was when Jeremy from Hattisburg came through town on his way home from Hueco. He and his beautiful girlfriend Alex came to a bbq at the Thornton’s, then a perfect evening session at McKinney (where I got a a high point on BOTH el camino left and QJ (foot move only)) topped by a steaming plate of enchiladas.


Got a new phone that takes weird, hard to see pictures. This is Jeremy.

This is alex, also of Hattisburg. She's just getting into climbing and when I asked how she liked being on a bouldering trip she was like, "I'm not used to all the ... hiking"


and Blaine was there! I haven't seen him in many months and it was so good to climb out there together. idk why I'm always asking blaine to do silly things for pictures. He just does them so well I guess.

So kind of a perfect day. Jeremy is, for me, a lot like Texas Steve from Eat, Pray, Love, the guy at the ashram in India who gives a lot of salt-o-the-earth spiritual guidance and long-haul perspective.

His perspective and encouraging, sane words have stuck with me since we met in Mallorca, and I got to re-up on their visit.

I am so psyched on MK right now. Gonna rest all week then go out with several pads on a cloudy evening and try to send some projects before the heat truly sets in and I skip town.


i got a fever! no, a real fever March 19, 2011

Filed under: Cars,Shopping,Waves — sendann @ 1:02 am

I had a rough first day home today. I woke up with a stomach ache and it hasn’t gone away yet. Pretty sure I have a fever also, ugh. I tried to be productive but wound up spending the day wandering around this upscale mall in north Austin. It was comforting, because upscale malls remind me of my sisters and mom, and I found a few cute things and some very expensive makeup. Yeah, I’m basically Paris Hilton. Then I went to a class with Yoga Matt, which was lovely, but I still don’t feel well. Feeling pretty discouraged on the car finding front, too. I’m searching for a Subaru or a 4runner with under 180k on it, with an air conditioner, age isn’t that important, and i can spend $3500. I see a lot of almosts. A trip to Colorado next month, or a scheme to acquire more money for the project may be necessary.

Tomorrow I’ll hopefully feel and perform a little better. Stoked to get back to gymnastics on Monday, then take a trip to the coast to look at cars and play in the ocean. I think there’s a gentle, large-ish swell on Wed/Thurs. Itching to cruise around again. Here’s a lovely video.

Vodpod videos no longer available.


Toolin time March 16, 2011

Filed under: Climbing,Trips — sendann @ 3:42 pm
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and all the sudden, my Hueco season was so over.

I guess we’ve been thinking about it all weekend, but today and yesterday’s high of 83 sealed the deal, and it is time to go home. There’s been all this vague, “end of the month” talk among my friends at the ranch and shindaggar, but it looks like we’ll all be gone by Thursday morning.

I went out on my own to North yesterday, but I’m still pretty shaky on the climbing alone idea, since my horrible solo ride at MK a few weeks back (hip and butt are fully recovered, thanks!). I also didn’t have any coffee or tea in the morning, and never quite woke up in the first place. I was hoping to run into Gustavo and the Mallorca boys, but they never appeared. I almost stormed off the mountain and headed home in a huff a few times before I got motivated to hike up to Big Nose Millie, which I haven’t tried this year. A few days ago I sent Something Different with one shoe on, and it went so fast, like, 3 tries. After many dozens of attempts over the last year.

So, riding the wave of one-shoe motivation, I tried Millie with one shoe, and experimented will Allen’s no-shoe method. Surprisingly, but also of course, I made the crux moves easily with my big toe all dug into a hole. I couldn’t hit the last move, though. It was nice to be alone and in the cool dark cave. I stayed there for 4 hours in this strange, suspended time kind of state. I ate, played with the holds, never saw anyone else, read an old edition of Light on Yoga I found at Goodwill yesterday, and practiced the moves in various stages of shoelessness. And I came up with this little system for thinking about my performance on projects.

When I’m working hard on a problem and it isn’t coming together I ask, Do I have what it takes to do this problem today?

Do I know and trust the beta?
Do I have the physical energy, strength or flexibility to make all the moves and transitions?
Do I feel safe gear/spotters wise? If not, is my fear manageable?
Do I even care?

I take this little inventory and consider my situation. It’s not about excuses, which I suppose all of these could be characterized as. Working at my limit, I have to be realistic about the circumstances I’m working under.  Here’s what I think was going on today on BNM.

The beta? Eh, no. I never stuck the last move convincingly, and I wasn’t sure how I was going to match the jug without dabbing either. No, I don’t really trust it yet. Allen gave me some tips later on.
Energy? Kinda. Granted I was napping, but I do well on projects when I’m in a tired haze, so I’ll say that was fine.
Strength/flex: Yes, I was long and strong enough to hit and reach everything.
Safe? No, I had my one pad, and was scooting it along move by move to avoid slamming the rock on my back or hips. I wanted another one or two thin ones for the length of the problem.
Care? Yeah, I haven’t done a v9 before, and this one it so funky and well suited to my roofy, pocket strength and long bony toes. I’m excited to send it, but it looks like it’ll have to be next year.

Anyway, that’s my little project inventory tool. Matters of weather, attitude, posse or distraction are purposely absent, since I’ve had a lot of success in bad weather surrounded by jerks while hating everything and bad music playing out of someone’s phone. I think weather would fall into safety and trust anyway.

Planning to leave early Thursday morning. Yoga and mastodon cleaning today.