I’ve been wanting to have a romantic sunset surf since I got here, but I’ve spent every day getting so wasted by the sun and the water, that I’m unable to move other than to raise food to my mouth after 5pm. But after Yoga Nidra konked me into deeper, longer sleep than I’ve had since I left the Mastadon, I slept in late this morning, read and worked all day, tried on dresses, studied, and vowed to stay off the beach for a change. But then I saw the sunset starting, and I could see that the ocean was calm, and I ran down. It would be stupid to pass a day in Hanalei with clean waves and the Roxy board and not go out.
I got out easily, felt super strong, and caught a few perfect greenies. The sets were short – just 2 steep, head-high waves close together, easy to paddle back through. As soon as I popped up on a set wave and started to drop in, I realized I was not in the right spot, and was not going to be able to slide down this face, and did that airborne tumbling through the air as the wave breaks thing. A perfect, totally worthy I think, wipe out. It was awesome! In retrospect, I think I sensed how high up I was on the face, got scared, looked down, went down. I can chalk it up to experience I guess. Gotta look up, keep my head up. Trust that ride.
The smaller waves in between the sets were easy and fun, and they made it probably the session of my trip. A little fat, a little short, fast and curly (just how I like ’em!). I caught a few of them and managed to kick out behind them before I got caught up in the break, which has been a sort of goal of mine for a while. I think it will significantly cut down on the drama and full on face pummeling I experience trying to paddle out on the rowdier days. I wasn’t even trying to, actually. I just slid along the green face, saw the break coming closer, and pop. I was on the outside. I’m not sure how it happened. I think I just looked from the breaking part to the outside and there I went. That or I fell in a lucky direction.
Everyone says this, but I’m going there anyhow: I can’t believe I only have 3 more days in Hanalei. It is not enough! As always when I feel the end of a Hawaii experience looming, I’m envisioning how I’ll make it back here. The thought is always “next time, for a little longer.” My parents aren’t sure if they’ll keep coming here to Kauai, since my dad is prone to sudden illness and they want to be closer to the medical center on Oahu. Luckily, there’s an awesome campground by the Hanalei Pier, and I know a great 1 room house in the beach ‘hood that rents for relatively cheap.
Of course, I caught myself checking movie times at the Alamo the other night, and I’m plotting how I can get home by the night of the 29th to catch my old high school soul brother Alan’s tour stop at Momo’s. It’s gonna be getting back to good times at home.