All paths lead nowhere, choose with heart

Back in the basic/Black/Saddle Again October 19, 2010

Filed under: Climbing — sendann @ 3:05 am
Tags: , , , , ,

After my long trip I touched down in Austin and worked 6 days in a row teaching gymnastics. A coworker hurt herself so I covered all her classes and a few extra, and it was a total blast as I had missed hanging out with 7-year-olds. I never imagined that I would say or think that, but there ya go.

Anyway, I finally went climbing again on Friday at McKinney. The weather was perfect and I was almost alone the whole time, which is how I like it. But I was, as is my usual day 1 of the year at McKinney, tragically weak. I fell off the prow on my first try, which is kind of my litmus test for the day/season. Then I couldn’t remember anything about how last year’s never-go project Power Slide worked. I tried out my new Dragons but they hurt my toes beyond usefulness. AO says I’m just a pansy because I haven’t been stuffing my toes into Dragons for 15 years. Gonna keep trying, as their shape and the tight heel and pointy-point toe carry so much promise. I worked the circuit on the main wall and tried to relearn projects for 2 hours, which is a long session there for me. I bailed feeling happy to be back at McKinney, but a little worried about my ability to pebble wrestle with authority.

Last year at McKinney on the 'manually stuffed heel hook project' with Capt. Bstrd. Carl Antone took this sweet picture, but I can't stand whatever is going on with my hair.


Then I went to the lake on Saturday with AO and TV, which was glorious. I think I was laughing the whole time, telling them about my trip and listening to their psych over Point Cove.

with TV and AO, loving life at Pt Cove. Erik Moore took this one.

I tried some new-school beta on Talk to Jesus, which was neat. I didn’t send it again, but I don’t care. Started working on another line that starts in the same spot, with some harder moves and strong, long, roof crimp issues. The boys have learned to do every move from one end of the tufa-crammed roof to the other. Their stoke seems bottomless, and it was so much fun to watch.


AO all up in the roof (by TV)

Capt Bastard all up in the roof (by Erik)

Eventually I started to feel like I had my lake legs and bouldering brain back, and I’m psyched to go for a third project (!). The water is cooler now, and the noon air temperature is about 85. It’s basically heaven, and I hope to go back a bunch in the next couple weeks before I head westward.

My new pt cove love, Murder Boat something. TV took this. He has a new photo blog, which is in the blogroll.

Then I went to Houston and climbed on Sunday at my favorite gym, Stone Moves North. I had a blast, made a new strong girlfriend, and fell off of a bunch of red problems, which at that gym = weaksauce. I am getting this kind of cool, passive acceptance feeling that Hueco in November might be all about v4++. Stoked. Plenty of projects.


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