I hate sports that involve endurance (or momentum, incidentally, but that’s another issue). I hate running, and I hate being tired and breathing heavy, and yeah. I panic and quit before this supposed “zone” I keep hearing about sets in.
I have lots of shorty sport climbing projects that don’t go because I get tired and sloppy on V1 moves at the top. Basically, wherever the chains are, I get to right below and come off. People are always nice about it. They congratulate me on getting through the crux, and say encouraging things about how it’s an endurance thing and not about climbing skill and I’m plenty strong and so on being nice. But the truth is I’m lazy and I don’t believe. I doubt that I can finish, I get close to the end, I remember how I never finish, then I lose my focus and get sloppy and fail.
Here’s me on a sports project last summer (2009). It took me two days to get all the moves and beta worked out, and for two months after that I one-fell it twenty different ways. But most often, I fell making the last move.
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Vinny stitched this video together out of pity, after the area shut down for the season and I still hadn’t sent. The move (at 2:30) is piss. It’s a swing out on two softballs, swing back, tow on a big roof chip (I can even not swing sometimes, just toe the chip and push out) heel hook on a HUGE ear with a tick mark, and lever up to a HUGE jug like a foot away, if that. So sad.
It’s like this on SO many lines. I feel the same on this 13a as I do down the wall on a 12a warm up of the same angle and style. Same deal there –cruise to the top, get tired, panic, rush, slop around for ten minutes, and fall off jugs before the top out.
And so now, maybe as a sort of decadent penance for being such a difficult person this spring, I’ve created a huge sport climbing trip season for myself. A week from today (!!!!!) I’m heading to the New River Gorge with Homoclimbtastic. Six weeks after that I’m going to Europe for a 40-day post-divorce exodus of sport climbing.
Then I’ll go to Hueco, happily ditching the rope in a closet somewhere and settling in for the winter. Although if sport climbing is going really well (which if it’s not by then I need to just give up the ghost already right?) I might try to go to Colorado for a couple weeks in late October, to take advantage of the fitness and try some American classics.
My training plan for this whole Divorcees Without Borders semester is this:
Swim 150 meters a day every day until the New. At once. Without stopping. At this point I can do it with one break and I’m pretty pumped and sloppy after 50 meters, stupid desperate to the end, being laughed at by children. I want to be able to go hard the whole time at an almost-my-maximum-effort pace. Tim said to grip these squeezy rings in my hands while I swim for additional helaciousness.
But I will not be doing that. Not this week at least.
Then, after four days on at the New, I’ll come back and change it to 300 meters of swimming 3 times a week until the community pools close in mid-August.
That and my regular climbing schedule of anytime anyone will dawn patrol Reimers or take me out on a boat is as far as I’ve gotten with the training plan so far. Stacking paper for these trips, and hustling to finish my Pilates teacher training apprenticeship will keep me pretty busy up until the day I go to Europe.
That is all. New blog. So far so good.